If there’s one thing all Malaysians are proud of, it’s undoubtedly our cuisine. With our melting pot of cultures, we are not only blessed with our staple Malay, Chinese and Indian food; but also, the multiplicity of more specialised cuisines including Peranakan, Kristang, Hock Chiew, and much more.
Malaysian cuisine, then, is a potpourri of all the unique cooking traditions of every ethnic and multi-ethnic culture across the country. Modern Malaysian cuisine takes these traditions a few steps further, evolving familiar flavours either to adapt to a contemporary palate or to introduce a new interpretation of classic recipes. It’s a whole other experience that’s worth a true-blue Malaysian gourmand’s visit.
From the award-winning Dewakan to the cincai (read: casual) Fifty Tales, here are 10 modern Malaysian restaurants to try around the Klang Valley.
Dewakan
As the only two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Kuala Lumpur (with Penang’s Au Jardin being the only other Malaysian restaurant to achieve the same feat), Dewakan is a must-visit for those seeking an unconventional introduction to local flavours. On the menu, you’ll find indigenous produce sourced from Malaysia’s own backyard – though you may not have realised they were there before – such as daun selom and keluak. These are prepared and presented using highly skillful techniques the average chef may not know of. In other words, expect the unexpected from the kitchen helmed by former molecular gastronomy lecturer and industry veteran Chef Darren Teoh.
Address: Level 48, Skyviews, Naza Tower, Platinum Park, No. 10 Persiaran KLCC, 50088 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 5pm – 11pm (weekdays), 12pm – 12am (weekends)
W dewakan.my | I @dewakanmy
Beta KL
After establishing Skillet, renowned local chef Raymond Tham returned to his roots with Beta KL, serving up modern Malaysian fare through a journey across the country. Opened since 2018, the restaurant has evolved over the years to constantly deliver fresh ideas and interpretations of local flavours. The ever-changing menu typically highlights unique dishes or recipes from different regions or states in Malaysia, thoughtfully paying tribute to our heritage while pushing the boundaries of our cuisine. It’s no surprise why Beta is one of the few one-Michelin-starred restaurants in KL!
Address: Cormar Suites, No. 20, Jalan Perak, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm – 10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays, closed on Mondays)
W betakl.com | F @betakualalumpur | I @beta.kl
Eat and Cook
Born during the pandemic, Eat and Cook stands out for its “omakase-style” Malaysian cuisine where guests are served dishes around an open kitchen counter dubbed “The Stage”. This creates an intimate dining experience that allows for greater appreciation of each dish as they are carefully introduced by the dedicated culinary team, led by chefs Lee Zhe Xi and Soh Yong Zhi. The menu promises to transport your taste buds to the streets of Penang, the bustling stalls of Melaka, and the heart of Malaysia. Come with a big appetite as portions here are known to be quite generous and hearty!
Address: H-6-1 Pusat Perdagangan Bandar Bukit Jalil, Persiaran Jalil 1, 57000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm – 11pm (Wednesdays); 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm (Thursdays to Sundays)
W eatandcook.asia | F eatandcook.asia | I @eatandcook.asia
Terra Dining
One of the newest entries on this list, Terra Dining opened in November 2023 under the helm of “non-chef chef-owner” Chong Yu Cheng (better known as YC). Located in TTDI, this unassuming establishment balances tradition and invention to a T through carefully sourced Malaysian produce, time-honoured Old World culinary influences, and good ol’ reliable science. Don’t miss out on the wine pairing here as Chef YC brings a wealth of experience from his former stint at Above Gastrobar, and is a wine connoisseur himself.
Address: 91, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm – 11pm (Wednesdays to Sundays)
Akar Dining
Following its recent reopening, Akar Dining now boasts a refreshed concept that still focuses on Malaysian ingredients and connections, while drawing from Chef Proprietor Aidan Low’s Japanese and French culinary influences. The refurbished space also reflects the local culture, featuring artworks by local artists as well as design elements resembling wayang kulit (a form of shadow play). Guests can look forward to unique combinations on the tasting menu, such as oyster and chayote, or sardine and kale, alongside decadent signature dishes like the Crab Claypot.
Address: 109, Jalan Aminuddin Baki, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, 60000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm – 12am (Tuesdays to Thursdays); 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 12am (Fridays & Saturdays)
W akardining.com | I @akar.dining
OpenHouse
Originally located in Suria KLCC, OpenHouse moved to a lush new location along Jalan Stonor earlier this year. Inspired by the concept of “open houses” every festive season, this modern Malaysian restaurant is designed to emulate the warm hospitality of inviting guests into your home. But this is no ordinary ‘home’, with a grand marquee tent and verdant ulam garden greeting the eyes upon entry. The kitchen works closely with Jabatan Warisan Negara to revive and reintroduce royal and near-extinct recipes that have been gazetted as national heritage dishes.
Address: 2, Jalan Stonor, Kuala Lumpur, 50450 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm daily
W openhouse.my | I @openhousemy
Manja
For a taste of modern Malaysian cuisine topped with a view of the Kuala Lumpur Tower, head over to Manja at Old Malaya. Here, the pampering of your palate begins with fresh, high-quality produce and predominantly grass-fed meat, all prepared sans artificial flavours, preservatives, or MSG. Think dishes like salmon and nangka madu, Sarawak black pepper ribeye, and curry leaf burnt butter fish, to name a few. The cocktail menu is no less Malaysian, featuring concoctions such as Spirit of Borneo (made with chilli-infused tuak) and Bunga Raya Gin (inspired by our national flower, the hibiscus).
Address: 6, Lorong Raja Chulan, Kuala Lumpur, 50250 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 12pm – 11pm (Sundays to Thursdays); 12pm – 12am (Fridays to Saturdays)
W manja.com.my | F @manjakualalumpur | I @manjakualalumpur
LI restaurant
Brought to you by the same team behind Provisions and Locus in Damansara Jaya, LI restaurant is an understated place for comforting (non-halal) Malaysian dishes presented through a modern lens. The culinary team keeps things simple by adding subtle global influences to familiar dishes and flavours, such as Charsiu Pork Sliders and your classic Chicken Chop. LI’s cosy, modest dining space makes it a great neighbourhood spot for a casual gathering with loved ones over a delicious meal.
Address: 47 Jalan SS22/23, Damansara Jaya, 47400 Petaling Jaya
Opening hours: 12pm – 3pm, 5.30pm – 10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays; closed on Mondays)
W lidamansarajaya.com | I @lidamansarajaya
Chocha Foodstore
Chocha Foodstore is an old but gold spot for modern Malaysian cuisine in the bustling heart of KL’s Chinatown. Established in 2016, its name means “sitting down for tea” or “teatime” in the Hakka dialect, representing a common local pastime. Helmed by Chef Mui Kuai Quan, the menu regularly changes according to seasonality and availability of ingredients to keep things fresh and interesting for loyal customers. The restaurant occupies a heritage shop lot, giving it a rustic, old-school charm that complements its unfussy food philosophy.
Address: 156, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 5pm – 11pm (weekdays); 12pm – 12am (weekends)
W chochafoodstore.com | F chocha.foodstore I @chochafoodstore
Fifty Tales
There’s modern Malaysian food, and then there’s modern Malaysian Chinese food. Fifty Tales caters to those craving the latter, specifically, with its no-frills handmade egg noodles (not to be confused with ramen). Aside from its comforting, springy alkaline-free noodles, customers can try their signature dumplings or share a few plates from the cincai dinner menu, which features contemporary renditions of well-loved Chinese dishes such as fish maw and double boiled soup.
Address: 19, Jalan 21/11b, Sea Park, 46300 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Opening hours: 12pm – 3.30 pm, 5.30pm – 10pm (Thursdays to Mondays)
W fiftytales.com | F @fiftytalesmalaysia | I @fifty_tales
Get more dining recommendations here.
Images courtesy of respective establishments