For the larger part of 2020 (we’ll refrain from saying ‘better’), the space that was once Saint Pierre KL on level 8 of W Kuala Lumpur had been devoid of the city’s gastronomes. That was until Willow Kuala Lumpur entered the picture at the end of the year, replacing the muted neutral tones of its predecessor with an arresting purple glow.
Designed to “emulate a spring garden that welcomes the willow bird when winter thaws”, the new contemporary restaurant presents a stark contrast from before.
Carpeted floors are traded for herringbone parquet; round clothed tables for square bared marble tops and dim lighting for modern fixtures. The purple hues we mentioned earlier come from a spotlight emitted onto a sizeable artificial tree resembling spring blossoms – an interior concept that permeates the ceilings further inside the establishment’s secluded dining area.
On one wall, cages housing what we presume to be the restaurant’s namesake bird surround an emblem of the restaurant – completing the Instagram-worthy factor of the space. The resulting atmosphere is a much closer semblance to W’s loud yet plush design aesthetic, without compromising its own unique identity.
Willow KL's main dining area
A more secluded dining area with views of the Petronas Twin Towers
The bar counter in the main dining area
(swipe left for more photos)
But that’s not all that has changed. Chef Lroy Lim, who had previously worked with the Saint Pierre team, now helms the kitchen at Willow, bringing his own brand of contemporary cuisine to the table.
“What I’m doing here is based on things I’ve picked up from my travels,” the chef explains, “I guess you can call it international. But I’ve also tailored the flavours to the Malaysian palate so that locals can relate to it.”
Well, here’s what this Malaysian writer has to say after sharing Willow’s 5-course and 7-course omakase menus with a colleague for dinner recently.
Taste: Beef tartare, tomato tart
Before starters are served, the bread basket arrives in the form of sourdough served with two choices of butter. Warm and crusty as you’d expect of any respectable restaurant, the bread is well-complemented with our preferred seaweed butter option that has a sweet and salty taste (likely made from nori rather than kombu a la Entier). A simple amuse bouche of potato espuma topped with lotus chip follows – whetting the appetite with its buttery light foam and subtle crisp.
Beef tartare kicks off the order of the evening, featuring a 150-day grain fed beef striploin, pickled daikon, fried shallots and cured egg yolk. An extra dash of spice or seasoning would have heightened the dish in our opinion, but the combination of tender raw meat and crunchy condiments proves delightful overall. On hindsight, the optional topping of black winter truffles may have been the perfecting touch.
Our second starter is a tomato tart made with heirloom cherry tomatoes from Cameron Highlands, which are either fresh or pickled. This is accompanied with anchovy mascarpone and mozzarella for a refreshing take on a summer salad. The crust holds its shape well when cut yet offers a delectable shortbread-like mouthfeel – a testament to Chef Lroy’s early culinary training in pastry.
Mains: Lamb & cod
For mains, we dig in first into a lamb loin that’s been marinated in a mix of cumin spice. Though flavourful enough on its own, dipping the cut into the tofu puree and chilli oil gives it an additional sweet and spicy kick. Chinese influences are reflected in the mini scallion pancakes, continuing the narrative of international cuisine at this restaurant.
Miso-glazed cod finds us at the end of the savoury portion of our meal. Served with warm oxtail broth that’s poured at the table, each mouthful simply melts in the mouth and warms the soul. Celeriac puree and lotus chips add dimension to the dish, rounding off the play on textures.
