Think Indian cuisine and a rich tapestry of flavors, spices, and culinary traditions come to mind. Varying widely across the country’s regions, each part of India brings unique techniques and ingredients to the table. Frangipaani, a restaurant under The Olive Tree Group, recently introduced a new menu that pays respect to these distinctive Indian influences – from the creamy, aromatic curries of the north to the tangy, coconut-infused flavors of the south.
Located in The Republic in Bukit Damansara, this Michelin Selected restaurant has been a popular spot for traditional Indian fare since opening in 2019. Its colonial charm and rustic interiors – defined by warm wood and tan leather furnishings – offer a relaxed atmosphere for casual gatherings, while its cosy terrace space provides an al-fresco dining experience.
Owner Erina Gomez is the mastermind behind the menu, alongside The Olive Tree Group’s Executive Chef of Indian Cuisine, Shaikh Mokrabin. With five years of reputation in the industry, the restaurant hopes to appeal to modern diners with its reimagined offerings that showcase contemporary influences, while remaining true to the philosophy of celebrating the authentic Indian flavours that loyal patrons have come to know and love.
Designed to cater to a wider range of tastes from mildly spiced to bold and flavourful, the new menu presents a selection of meats, vegetarian options, and healthy sides, along with creative cocktails to complement the vibrant flavours of the dishes. We recently dropped by Frangipaani for a taste and received a few pleasant surprises – here’s why.
Who says Indian food is always rich and heavy?
While many associate Indian cuisine with full, intense flavours, Frangipaani artfully delivers dishes with punchy flavours that dance delicately on the palate. We started off with the Paani Puri that’s filled with Avocado Mash in lieu of potatoes and chickpeas for a healthier twist. The accompanying tamarind and mint liquid and spice water are served at the table to preserve the shell of the puri, ensuring a light and crisp texture with an explosion of sweet, tangy, fresh, and spicy notes.
Another vegetarian-friendly (and health-conscious) side dish is the Asparagus and Edamame Shami Kabab – offering fragrant and earthy patties enhanced with a nutty tomato paste. Before we moved on to meat, we also tried the Fish Cutlets. Made from a cherished family recipe, these crunchy, bite-sized morsels feature freshly blended fish that’s seasoned with aromatic spices and served alongside a vibrant red garlic chutney.
Then there was the Multani Seekh Kebab, which, albeit seasoned with a wealth of spices, did not feel overbearing. The goat meat is cooked to a desirable tenderness, and served with a slightly sweet and tangy chutney that rounds out its robust, meaty flavours.
But if indulgent is what you prefer…
Of course, there are also options to satiate heavier palates. For instance, the Mutton Rogan Josh is a well-loved Kashmiri signature comprising tender mutton that’s simmered in a potent blend of spices. The resulting meat and curry is bold and flavourful, best enjoyed with biryani or one of the flat breads.
We opted for the Kulcha instead of the usual Naan, and were rewarded with a soft, pillowy base to soak up the richness of the mutton curry. Alternatively, the Laccha Pratha pairs equally well, contrasting the thick consistency of curries with its crisp, flaky texture.
For a seafood option, try the Mangalorean Prawn Ghee Roast, featuring spicy, succulent prawns cooked in ghee masala. “Capped off” with a warm, buttery Ghee Dosa that perfectly balances the heat of this beloved delicacy, this combination pays homage to the vibrant heritage of the coastal town of Mangalore with its intense, aromatic flavours.
Don’t miss the drinks and desserts
Aside from the food, Frangipaani’s new menu also offers a selection of creative cocktails to complete your meal. The Mirchi Masti for one, is a refreshing vodka-based concoction consisting of tropical passionfruit, fresh mint, lime, and jal jeera, invigorated by a touch of spicy red chili. We also enjoyed the Yuzin, a gin-based tipple that blends coconut water, kaffir lime leaves, and yuzu. It is served with a coconut ice cube, which ensures the drink retains its sweet, refreshing notes even as the ice melts.
As for dessert fans, the Filter Coffee Rosogulla Sundae promises to satisfy, especially if you enjoy tiramisu. This bittersweet treat features filter coffee-soaked Rosogulla (a popular Bengali dessert) layered with mascarpone cheese and topped with a tuille for a nice texture play, while still presenting quintessentially Indian nuances.
Not everyone welcomes change, and understandably so if you’ve developed an attachment to certain dishes over the past five years; but Frangipaani’s updated menu comes at a time when small shifts are necessary to stay relevant in the city’s evolving gastronomy landscape. To this end, Frangipaani makes a strong case to attract new and adventurous customers craving Indian cuisine in KL.
Frangipaani
Address: The Republik, Lot No.M.03, Mezzanine Floor, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 11.30am-3pm. 6pm-11pm (Monday to Thursday) | 11:30 am–3:30 pm, 6–11:30 pm (Friday to Sunday)
Contact: 03-2011 0030
Photography: Imran Sulaiman
Read more food reviews here or get a taste of more dining updates here.