The vintages are being updated, chronographs reset, and limits of physical and aesthetic worlds redefined. We’re gearing up for SIHH 2018 with these ten.
2017 coming to a close means one thing to watch aficionados: soon it will be the magical time of SIHH 2018. It’s the 28th annual celebration of all things horology in Geneva, Switzerland, which saw over 16,000 visitors last year.
Leading up to the largest convention of its kind, brands we know and love are releasing limited edition collections sure to pique your curiousity. Here are ten that caught our eye – a mere taste of what’s to come in January.
Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer Counter
Used as a wristwatch, pocket watch or dashboard clock, Montblanc's latest addition to the TimeWalker series comes in a limited edition of 100 pieces. It's an interpretation of Minerva's historical Rally Timer, with MB M16.29 monopusher chronograph inspired by the original Minerva caliber 17-29 from the 1930s. Other inspirational cues are seen in handcrafted finishes and vertically aligned chronograph with tachymeter scale to calculate speed over fixed distances. This satin-finished titanium piece has been rigorously tested by the Montblanc Laboratory Test 500. RP: $37,000 W montblanc.com
IWC Portugieser Constant-Force Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”
IWC Schaffhausen is celebrating its 150th year in 2018, with 27 limited edition anniversary timepieces, no less. The highlight of its Jubilee series, this special edition will belong to only 15 people worldwide. Watch the complex manufacture-made hand-wound movement through its sapphire case back, powered by caliber 94085 and 96-hour power reserve. It combines a constant-force tourbillon with a perpetual moon phase display for extreme precision in all of 577.5 years - the exact duration after which when it'll have to be adjusted by a single day. It should retail at $253,000. Also look out for the rose gold IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Edition “150 Years”. W iwc.com
Cartier Baignoire Interdite
You know the iconic oval-faced Baignoire women's watch - now, meet its latest, quirky version. Glossy-black, oversized Roman numerals strip-wrap the sideways-face, while the diamond-ringed dial alternately emerges and hides, bringing together incontrovertible classic elegance with a bold freedom. This fits right in with the five-piece Cartier Libre collection for SIHH 2018, disrupting the Cartier proportions, volumes, and lines with soft femininity and brazen aesthetic. W cartier.com
Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Military
Dubbed the adventurer's chronometer, this piece is a modern iteration of pocket chronometers prized by the sea captains of 19th, 20th centuries. Featuring the Ulysse Nardin UN-118 in-house movement, it is simply and elegantly imposing with dynamic military design, Arabic numerals on eggshell white face, and tan leather strap. It is graced by an oversized crown on its 44mm case, with 5-bar water resistance making it a true captain's watch. There is also a sleek black superluminova version with orange stitching. Only 300 are available. W ulysse-nardin.com
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time
Vacheron Constantin's Overseas model gets a facelift for SIHH 2018, once again with its trademark quick-change straps in rubber, leather, and steel. Its face is noticably less cluttered, with the second time zone moved to a central hand, and AM/PM indicator replacing the power reserve position-wise. New 5110 DT caliber is an upgrade of 2016's 5100, with 60-hour power reserve at 4Hz. Prices start from $24,700. W vacheron-constantin.com
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Limited Edition
JLC pays tribute to Reverso's early days of sporting fame with boot-maker Casa Fagliano. Its classic design may lend to its 'dress watch' status today, but with these Reverso's leather straps lend an unmistakably 'polo' touch. This year's iteration is 5mm larger, with a pink gold case and the trademark dual reversible dials with elegant dauphin hands. While the dual-toned Cordovan leather strap may steal the show, a manual Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 854/2 runs it. Only 100 models will be available at JLC boutiques. W jaeger-lecoultre.com
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S
The king of daring horology, Roger Dubuis, returns with two skeleton movements for SIHH 2018. In pink gold is the Excalibur Aventador S, developed with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. You'll notice the racing inspiration in engine-inspired bridge and power reserve indicators. Running on manual caliber RD103SQ with an incredibly complicated movement, this piece may go over the head of the gentleman strictly in the market for a time-telling device. But Roger Dubuis plays a different game - one of innovation that may be extravagant, but feels right at home on the wrist of the right wearer. Does that justify the 28-piece model's $214,000 price tag? Time will tell. W rogerdubuis.com
Piaget Antiplano Ultimate 910P
At 4.3mm overall, Piaget's latest is the world's thinnest automatic watch (though the title of thinnest self-winding watch is still held by Bulgari. This is made possible by the ultra-thin automatic movement, caliber 910P, which unconventionally uses the watch's case as its base plate. Its dial is rather fascinating too, with various gear train wheels decorating the face in great detail. Piaget Antiplano Ultimate 910P will go for $26,000 (pink gold) or $27,000 (white gold). Both versions come with black alligator leather strap and matching gold pin buckles. W piaget.com
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 'Homage To Walter Lange'
As the name suggests, this jumping seconds watch is a tribute to founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange. Expect a classic with an updated complication, featuring caliber L1924, which has 36 jewels. Accordingly revamped is the 60-hour power reserve. On the face, the solid silver dial is offset by sharp black numerals and trademark chapter ring. Instead of a chronograph, users may find the stoppable deadbeat seconds complication handy by working the central seconds hand and pusher at two o'clock. This limited edition tribute comes in white gold (145 pieces), pink gold (90), or yellow gold (27), but there's also a very special steel version to be auctioned for charity sometime this year. W alange-soehne.com
Hermès Arceau Chrono Titane
A reinterpretation of Henri d'Origny's 1978 model, the new Hermès is exactly what its name suggests: a titanium-cased chronograph off the Arceau line. It's 41mm-diameter case has an almost gunmetal finish, capturing a dial rich in details. This includes three sub-dials for running seconds, minutes, and hours, completed by a subtly-angled date window between four and five o'clock. Powered by an outsourced automatic movement boasting 42-hour power reserve and 37 jewels, Hermès Arceau Chrono Titane comes in natural Barenia calfskin or black embossed version for a sporty flair. You'll find it in stores come February. W hermes.com
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Images courtesy of respective brands.
(This article was originally posted on December 7, 2017 and updated on January 1, 2018.)