As is the case every year, there’s a succession of creative directors at ready-to-wear brands and major luxury houses. In 2023, highly influential names like Gabriela Hearst, who had been head of creation at Chloé for three years, announced her departure, while Tom Ford left his eponymous label to turn his attention towards his cinematic passions. There were also several debuts from newly-appointed creative directors, including Sabato de Sarno at Gucci and Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton Men.
Only time will tell, but in the meantime, we’ve got several new creative directors making their debut in 2024.
German designer Chemena Kamali was appointed as the next creative director of Chloé, stepping in following Gabriela Hearst’s departure from the French luxury label. Her career has ranged from Saint Laurent to Chloé ateliers, having worked for Phoebe Philo and Clare Weight Keller. Kamali’s first collection will be presented in a lookbook of a pre-fall collection in January, while the first catwalk show will be staged at Paris Fashion Week in February 2024.
“My heart has always been Chloé’s,” Kamali shared in a statement. “It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago. Returning feels natural and very personal. I am extremely honoured to be taking on this role and to be building on the vision that Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld defined early in the Maison’s history. I hope to capture the emotional connection and spirit of Chloé for today.”
Following the departure of Charles de Vilmorin, Italian designer Alessandro Vigilante was named creative director of Rochas. Having honed his skills at renowned brands like Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini, Vigilante is renowned for his elegant and modern approach to fashion. His first collection for Rochas is set to be unveiled in February during the Fall 2024 season of Paris Fashion Week.
“I am honoured and grateful to be joining the Maison Rochas and for the opportunity to build on the rich and profound heritage of the House. Rochas represents a dedication to French sophistication and a celebration of Womanhood that I find incredibly inspiring. I am looking forward to conveying my vision,” Vigilante said in a statement.
Matteo Tamburini has been appointed the next creative director of Italian luxury label Tod’s as of early December of 2023, following the exit of Walter Chiapponi who departed for Blumarine. Tamburini joined from Bottega Veneta and held various design roles at Schiaparelli and Emilio Pucci. The first Tod’s collection under Tamburini’s creative direction will be womenswear and slated launch for Autumn/Winter 2024/25. It’ll be presented at Milan Fashion Week in February 2024.
“I am honored and excited to join the Tod’s family and become part of a brand that is so closely tied to my origins and memories. I identify myself with the brand’s values and the continuous pursuit of high quality and style it has undertaken until now, and I look forward to contributing with my expertise”, he said.
In 2023, Alexander McQueen welcomed a new era of flair and creativity announcing that Irish-born designer Seán McGirr had been named the new creative director. His hiring came after the legendary Sarah Burton stepped down from the British luxury label. McGirr’s design skills have left an unmistakable stamp on JW Anderson and Dries Van Noten, Burberry and Uniqlo, among other fashion titans.
“We are delighted to welcome Seán McGirr as creative director,” Gianfilippo Testa, CEO of Alexander McQueen, shared in a statement. “With his experience, personality, and creative energy, he will bring a powerful creative language to Alexander McQueen while building on its unique heritage.”
Featured image: Alexander McQueen