In The Kitchen with Executive Chef Sean Thu of Kikyo at The Troika

Omakase restaurants are proliferating around the Klang Valley, but Kikyo is anything but a commonplace entry in this growing landscape. Since its opening in 2023 at The Troika, this contemporary Japanese restaurant has carved a niche with its focus on warayaki – a centuries-old straw-searing technique that imbues every ingredient with a delicate, smoky trail.

Inside, a soaring atrium anchored by a golden Kumiko lantern sets the stage, casting warm, intricate patterns across the modern space. While clean sushi counters typically grace the omakase experience elsewhere, here, straw-fed flames dance in front of guests, transforming each course into a theatrical performance.

Amid its pale-orange glow of embers and the soft scent of char stands Executive Chef Sean Thu, who leads a lean but dedicated team in bringing fire, finesse, and fine Japanese fare to the fore. As each member of the team gets to work ahead of dinner service, we step In The Kitchen with Chef Thu to learn more about his culinary journey, the concept behind Kikyo, and how they are keeping the art of warayaki alive in KL.

When and how did your culinary journey begin?

Sean Thu (ST): My culinary journey really started at home, when tasting different foods for the first time really interested me. From the age of 17, I knew I wasn’t the studious type – so culinary it is. From there, a whole new world opened to me.

Can you walk us through your journey from your first kitchen job to where you are today?

ST: My journey started out rocky with a few stints in various establishments to understand the industry. After working in Mandarin Oriental Kuala Lumpur and Nobu Kuala Lumpur, I opened a Mexican restaurant called Mezcla for a few years, but it did not turn out well. So, I became a lecturer at APCA in Petaling Jaya. Then, Covid happened, which I’m sure everyone suffered. Towards the end of the lockdown, I got my first Head Chef position in Kikubari…and now I’m here in Kikyo.

Tell us about the dining concept at Kikyo.

ST: Kikyo has dual concepts that diners can opt for, warayaki-driven omakase and a la carte – which is a more casual, sharing style of Japanese fusion cuisine.

A towering golden Kumiko lantern sets the stage in Kikyo’s dining area.

Describe the process and skills involved to master the art of warayaki.

ST: Warayaki is a Japanese cooking style that uses burning straw to cook fish and meat – wara means rice straw and yaki means burning. It’s pretty straightforward once we have locked down the temperatures and timing. The tricky part would be to determine the timing and heat levels as well as the amount of smoke needed to bring the best out of each ingredient.

Walk us through a typical day in Kikyo’s kitchen – what’s your routine like?

ST: No matter what, the day must start with coffee. Then, I usually set up the kitchen and run through with the team on what the day will be like in terms of preparation and reservations.

From there, it’s prep all the way until a short one-hour break for all of us. At 5pm, I make my rounds around the kitchen before service. From there, it’s all hands focused on service until closing. We normally go back together as a team – at least that’s what I try to impart in every team I lead.

Kikyo’s culinary team (clockwise from top left): Alex Loh, Jeremy Lee, Yong You Jun, Sean Thu, Michelle Lim, and Anis Fatihah.

Kikyo blends tradition with modernity – how do you strike that balance in your dishes?

ST: It’s always important to focus on letting the ingredients speak for us, as well as understanding what our guests want to eat. These are normally the two key guidelines I believe in. From there, we try to slip in as much culinary creativity as we can.

Does Kikyo have a signature dish? What is it and what makes it special?

ST: I would say each dish is carefully curated by our team, so I can’t single one out. But if I had to choose one from our current menu, it would be our Shima Aji cold dish because it really showcases us as chefs and what we want to do, which is the art of restraint.

For example, we keep the ingredients minimal on the plate to highlight the taste, textures, and temperatures. I’d say this dish represents us the most in that way. The richness in flavour of the fish in its peak season, paired with the crisp sweetness and acidity from Amela tomatoes, bring the dish full circle.

What’s a common misconception people have about Japanese fine dining or omakase?

ST: I think the concept of Japanese fine dining is still quite new to diners in Malaysia, but we are spoilt for choice in terms of dining locations, as omakase establishments are now just a stone’s throw away from each other. Our challenge is to keep things different and unique while still being grounded in our craft to continue to be a viable option to our guests.

What’s next for you and Kikyo – any dishes or projects you’re excited about?

ST: In the near future, we will be launching our new omakase menu for the Fall/Winter season. We will be highlighting new ingredients that are best in season from Japan and try to incorporate some Malaysian elements as well this time around.

Follow Sean Thu (@seanthu88) on Instagram for more on his culinary journey or visit Kikyo (@kikyorestaurant) for a taste of its warayaki-style omakase.