Chinatown’s ever-evolving dining scene has recently welcomed yet another newcomer in the form of Esca. Headed by Chef Yu Cheng, better known as Chef YC, who also helms the MICHELIN Selected Terra Dining, together with MICHELIN award-winning sommelier Hin Han Lai and team, Esca reflects the cultural hub it calls home with its vibrant concept and label-defying cuisine.
This translates to a menu that draws surprising influences from around the globe, whether it’s Spanish octopus elevated with Balinese sambal matah, or French beurre blanc paired with North African harissa and Sichuan cucumbers. Expect a rollercoaster of flavours that challenge perceptions, while sparking curiousity and excitement with every dish.
As Chef YC puts it, “Esca is a real-life experiment in breaking rules. We want to show how different cultures can come together beautifully on one plate. It might look like madness on the surface, but there’s a method behind it. The result? A menu that’s fun, bold, and, most importantly, delicious.”
“Rules are overrated”
Tucked in a century-old shop lot, Esca’s colourful interiors mirror its eclectic spirit. Its vivid logo greets customers first, along with an open al-fresco dining area up front with low chairs and tables that set the scene for a casual hangout – or people-watching the pedestrians of Petaling Street. The bar is located near the entrance, offering ice-cold beer, wines, spirits, cocktails, and mocktails.
Further inside, the main dining area features exposed brick walls, concrete, and drywall weaved together and framed with plywood, exuding a modern, laid-back setting. The ceiling is draped in cool grey fabric, while upcycled furniture pieces from various marketplaces add pops colour to the space. Esca’s interior design partner, Wunderwall, intentionally put together these mismatched shapes and colours to echo the restaurant’s philosophy of challenging uniformity.
Rounding off the ambience is a dynamic playlist of predominantly R&B hits, injecting energy into the space and amplifying its lively spirit. The mix of global music genres also underscores the restaurant’s international inflections – largely inspired by Chef YC’s travels.
“Diversity is delicious”
Despite its rule-breaking ethos, Esca’s culinary identity is grounded by its live-fire cooking approach using Tansho and Firenane grills. In other words, Esca isn’t afraid to “bring the heat, shake things up, and challenge KL’s dining norms” with bold flames and flavours.
The menu is modest, offering just eight appetisers, five mains, and two desserts. Chef YC’s intention with this is to focus on delivering quality and creativity in every dish, which we happily commend. Portion-wise, the plates are ideal for sharing, so come in groups to enjoy a greater variety – unless you or your dining companions tend to have large appetites.
Among the highlights include the Barramundi Crudo, an appetising Italian-style dish with a tropical twist comprising fresh coconut water, lime, winged beans, green mango salad, and lychee. The Grilled Octopus is another hit, combining Spanish pulpo with Malaysian salted deviled egg and zingy Balinese sambal.
Meat fans can opt for the Lamb Saddle, consisting of harissa lamb cooked with dried shrimp and Indonesian-style orange sambal accompanied by begedil carrot puree. Alternatively, the Chicken Leg gets our stamp of approval for its aromatic green tandoori spin, complemented with biryani rice for a heartier option.
No matter your pick, Esca invites you to keep an open mind and indulge in creative chaos and unapologetic diversity.
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Esca
Address: 135G, Jalan Petaling, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 5pm – 11pm, Tuesday to Sunday | Closed on Monday
Contact: 017-982 5753
I @esca.kl
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