Now that we’ve seen the majority of the most breathtaking Cruise 2022 collections, it’s time for the gents to get a slice of the fashion cake with the recent rollout of the Spring Summer 2022 men’s collections.
Presented in equally as high voltage as their fairer counterparts, brands like Dior brought us to whimsical deserts reminiscent of Texas in a collaboration with Travis Scott; Burberry transcends physical borders and asks us to draw from the energies that make us feel youthful and alive; while Prada brings an uncanny summer escape, concluding in a space where nature and artifact interact.
See more below.
Riccardo Tisci melds the feelings of freedom and togetherness in an exploration of the forces that connect and inspire us – those which make us feel alive. Creating a moment of youthful positivity, the presentation gracefully centres on the power of the spiritual and the energy of music and movement. Filmed in the outdoors, swathes of sand are contrasted against the minimalist and raw urban structure of the striking Millennium Mills in Royal Victoria Docks, East London. A slew of models cut a bold path through the set, each distinguished with daring individuality. In an unflinchingly honest representation of freedom of expression, the collection challenges conventional codes with assured fluidity. The looks brim with youthful experimentation and sensuality, expressed through rebellious faux piercing accessories and black leather halterneck vests, coats and briefs. Tailoring and outerwear are similarly readdressed with sleeveless non-conforming silhouettes and abstract prints. The collection’s name ‘Universal Passport’ can be seen emblazoned across sleeveless mesh T-shirts and cotton shirts, affirming the presentation’s message of connectivity and exploration. W my.burberry.com
Exploring the possibilities of both thoughtful tailoring and innovative fabric-making, Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori draws up the New Set as a scale of possibilities for the individual to adopt and adapt. Fluid volumes and streamlined shapes allow for a new dialogue between clothing, body and gestures. The sense of properness that is a corollary of formality is translated into a harmonious, yet unpredictable use of colours and textures, and a gently non-formal look. The collection is marked by an utter sense of lightness. Liquid and comfortable silhouettes revolve around collarless kimono shapes, utilitarian chore coats, long dusters, oversized overshirts and a new generation of knitwear. Weightless, tightly woven fabrics and paper-thin leathers allow shapes to show off the clarity and precision of design without any padding or constructions; firmness of line encounters freedom of movement. The New Set is an act of translation that takes inspiration from the practicality and pragmatism of workwear to get a progressive spin on tailoring, with magnified details – oversized pocket flaps, augmented drawstrings – making a statement without forsaking function. W zegna.com
The Prada menswear collection brings uncanny summer escape, concluding in a space where nature and artifact interact. The show represents a transition between a tunnel, an urban space, and the sea. Filmed in Milan at the Fondazione Prada’s Deposito, as well as in Sardinia, it is an appreciation of and thanks to the Sardinian community, which Prada supports via the MEDSEA Foundation in its project to restore marine ecosystems with the reforestation of Posidonia Oceanica meadows in the Marine Protected Area of Capo Carbonara. Posidonia Oceanica is a marine plant endemic to the Mediterranean Sea, providing an important habitat for marine species and playing a crucial role in absorbing CO2 to help mitigate climate change. W prada.com
The FENDI Men’s Spring/Summer 2022 accessories collection is a playful escape from reality, subverting everyday objects with the heights of FENDI craftsmanship. Swimming goggles and swimming caps in collaboration with ARENA join ping-pong racket bags as ironic summer essentials, and the Baguette is shrunk as a jewellery pouch on a fine waist chain. The Peekaboo appears in matte nylon, finished with burnished edges or Selleria macro stitches, while the Baguette returns as a roomy messenger or perspex clutch. New luggage shapes in canvas and printed FF logo mesh feature a bonded convex profile for a ‘fisheye’ effect, and the new Fendiness utility buckle appears on a series of nylon webbing backpacks and crossbody styles. New outerwear exhibits the inimitable prowess of the FENDI leather atelier, with vented trench coats, roomy windcheaters and overshirts punctuated by Selleria stitching and embossed detailing on reversible suede, calfskin and sustainable garment-dyed cotton. Shirting in crisp poplin or light woven cashmere features fabric buttons for an all-over monochrome tonality broken elsewhere by a series of collaged fabrications featuring mismatched jacquard collars and striped cotton sleeves. Knits follow the engineered contours of the FENDI Earth motifs in featherweight cashmere intarsia ensembles alongside zipped two-tone double cashmere and polo tops in ribbed or crochet cotton. Mock neck pullovers and tees in crochet mink scoop up in the front, exposing utility belts strung with FENDI loop charms. W fendi.com
Inspired by Dior’s deep-rooted connection to America, Men’s Artistic Director Kim Jones lassoed a collaboration with Texan-born rapper, singer, songwriter and record producer Travis Scott on the Dior Summer 2022 Men’s Collection on a project called Cactus Jack Dior, a name inspired by Scott’s Cactus Jack records label. The show takes place in a recreation of Christian Dior’s’ childhood rose garden, which evolves into a cactus garden reflecting Houston, Texas, complete with grand canyons and dusty deserts. Tailoring, reflecting the savoir-faire of the house, underpins the collection: flaring softly below a high waist and narrow armhole, fluid trousers and slim overcoats sketch an evolution of Dior’s 1956 ‘Arrow’ line. The tailleur oblique fastens high on the body, adding a touch of formality to contrast with sportswear elements; track pants with couture detailing, T-shirts washed to resemble tour merchandise, embellished with embroideries and hand-painted. Travis Scott has reimagined the the Dior logotype via a series of hand-drawn graphics, utilised as prints and embroidery. Other motifs, including the topography of Houston, the Cactus Jack character and imagery drawn from Dior’s archives become patches, trophies of imaginary trips that adorn bags and leather souvenir jackets. W dior.com
Paul Smith’s spring/summer ’22 collection charts the transition from dawn to dusk, with an organic colour palette that moves from orange sunrise hues through to brilliant sky blues and, finally, midnight blacks. Looks are tonally coordinated to give these glorious summer colours their moment to shine. Earth tones, such as Tuscan terracotta, putty and red clay, further root the collection in natural colours, while punctuation points of bright red and acid yellow cut through. Staying with earthly inspirations, the four elements – earth, wind, fire and water – are represented in a series of photo prints that mix natural textures with bold colour washes. Elevating the central theme of fresh air, fabrics have been chosen for their lightness and the way they catch the air. Transparent nylons are used to craft complete garments, or to add textured layers to linen styles. At the same time, check fabrics nod to the tailoring world, which is a supporting tent pole in any Paul Smith collection. W paulsmith.com