Many designers joined in the eco-conscious movement by incorporating sustainable materials into their collections, even going as far as being carbon neutral.
Following the colourful start to Fall 2020 Fashion Week in New York, London has just wrapped up its calendar with no less excitement and Instagram-worthy moments.
There was the time a front-row guest helped out a model with a wardrobe malfunction during the Halpern show, and then there were eerie looks at Richard Quinn’s show where models wore crystal-adorned armours from head to toe.
Thanks to increasing pressure from environmentalists, there was even a swap shop organised for the first time ever to encourage Fashion Week attendees to exchange their clothes for other donated designer pieces on the rack. On the runways, many designers joined in the eco-conscious movement by incorporating sustainable materials into their collections, even going as far as being carbon neutral.
As for the collections, most were refreshingly exuberant and covetable – a welcome sight amidst the tumultuous times the global industry is going through due to the coronavirus outbreak. Have a look at our favourite shows from London Fashion Week below.
“Moving back to London recently – a city I first discovered as a young student – gave me a real sense of nostalgia. It was the place where I learnt to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today,” creative director Ricardo Tisci said in the press statement. With that, he presented a collection titled “Memories”, reflecting his formative years and the people and places he had come across then.
Without overlooking the heritage of the house, there were classic Burberry trenchcoats and equestrian jackets featuring the house check but in new silhouettes; alongside tailored suits, jodphurs (referencing his trips to India), satin dresses and fluted skirts. As part of its commitment to sustainability, the show was certified carbon neutral – and congratulations are in order for that and a collection deserving of a star-studded guest list.
Set in London’s National Portrait Gallery, it was foreseeable that the Erdem show would echo the artistic inspirations from its venue. And that, Erdem Moralioglu, did deliver – with cues from a young Cecil Beaton who had discovered photography whilst dressing up his sisters in dramatic homemade sets. Paying homage to Cecil’s glam fantasies, the collection saw an abundance of flapper-style dresses, brocade designs, sheer metallic gowns and heavy embellishments.
It was all about textures and volume at the JW Anderson show. Staple pieces including coats, suit jackets and black dresses were all blown up to extreme proportions juxtaposed against soft fabrications. There were also references to the Roaring Twenties, reinterpreted in the form of sequinned dance dresses, faux fur collars and shimmery capes. As exaggerated and flamboyant as some pieces turned out to be, it all felt refreshing and optimistic. Perhaps a bit of glitter and gold is just what the world needs right now – and Jonathan Anderson delivered.
Roland Mouret is one designer who’s taking sustainability very seriously. Though admittedly, his latest collection is not 100% carbon neutral yet, it was 70% sustainable and included jewellery made from bits of wood he found on the beach in lieu of buying new materials (“why do you have to buy everything?”). The long delicate dresses, metallic jumpsuits and soft-shouldered jackets nodded to the ‘80s, paired with footwear from the socially-conscious label Dear Frances.
After a decade of offering modest, functional clothing via her eponymous label, former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham marks her Fall 2020 collection with a “Gentle Rebellion”. For her, this means deeper necklines, shorter hems (though still touching the knees) and cut-out knits. But that’s not to say her penchant for practicality has reformed. There were still tailored jackets and suits, ballooned-sleeve blouses and dresses as well as a series of plaid uniforms, albeit paired with sexy, statement making high boots – gentle rebellion, indeed.
Photos: Respective brands