The all-exciting season of fashion weeks continues to play out, redefining the vogue and infiltrating the fashion scene with boundless creativity. As the dust settled from the fashion weeks at New York and London, it was time to revel in the luxury of Milan. With a grand array of 56 shows and 74 presentations set across five days, Milan Fashion Week hosted much-adored luxury Maisons alongside promising debutants in fashion’s beloved capital.
Milan’s coveted status as the earth’s lodestone of opulent dressing is beyond question; it has been affirmed time and time again through the shows that grace its runways and the master ateliers – such as Versace and Bottega Veneta – that rest within it. Sartorial flair and trendsetting know no limits here, and this year’s Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter served as an excellent reiteration of this.
Of course, there were some instances that lingered with us long after they passed and for that, they deserve more attention. So, without further ado, we present our round-up of the five most memorable moments at the Milan Fashion Week that left us all in awe:
Prada’s coquette dream
It was all about indulging in a romance with the past for Prada, an endeavour made possible as the House scattered elements of histories into today’s fashion. This time around, there appeared to be a reference to the trend that has taken the world by storm: the coquette trend, where bows reign supreme. The very first look that came down the Prada runway was a black shift dress adorned entirely in bows, and its baby pink counterpart stunned just as much. The curation, which included blazers, lined skirts, vivid-hued knitwear and biker jackets, carried stripped back looks with simple outlines.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ decision to employ this infamous trend was instrumental in conceiving a womenswear collection where traditionally masculine materials are reimagined with strokes of femininity. Bows, ruffles and pretty colours accent the sublimity of womanhood through time.
Roberto Cavalli’s paean to marble
In an obvious shift from its well-acquainted wild animal prints, Italian luxury fashion house Roberto Cavalli delves into a reality constructed from marble. The marble was both an imaginative and welcome touch for a label that usually boasts leopard and tiger prints atop its designs. As such, Cavalli’s newest collection, Marbleous, was a canvas for the intricately veined and colour-freckled stone. The brand’s iconic silhouettes – petite mini dresses, sweeping gowns and long-sleeved tops matched with pencil skirts – were all present, swathed in marble swirls of black, white, yellow and emerald.
The large nylon puffer coat was yet another pathbreaker, donning an all-marble facade. Inspired by a woman’s readiness to transform, Cavalli’s collection was sophisticated and demure at once as it turned polychrome marble into a powerful fashion symbol.
Versace’s gift to rebel souls
Donatella Versace has declared the new order for the modern Versace woman: rebellious and a kind heart, a good lady with a fierce soul. The face of power dressing, the luxury label has confidence woven into its fabrics – this season, Versace has opted to reflect that through punk attire. This resulted in nonconforming motifs that materialised in a copious amount of leather, ribbed body-con-style dresses and mini skirts, sheer shirts and Versace’s medusa head sigil finishings. Designed using a palette dominated by red, black and gold, the collection was enhanced with a distinct eyeliner look – and for some models, liberty-spiked hair – which together amplified Versace’s high-voltage surprise.
Marni’s play of proportions
Amidst the classic offerings of functionality and wearability in Milan, Marni’s collection was a reviving jolt – inventive and unique, it held a character of its own. Think, a selection of clothings that look as if it was specially fashioned for space travellers, eccentric individuals and style experimenters (and more in that category). Initiating the show was a futuristic choir within a white cavernous space shrouded in crinkled paper which poised the stage for a display of oversized coats and structured cutout sweaters embedded with 1960s retro-futurism.
Creative Director Francesco Risso’s clever play of proportions and textures was manifest in the collection – from chunky-shaped garments with baggy gloves to funnel necks and space-inspired cocoon coats, Marni’s line was all about primitive energy tinged with fashion-forward aesthetics. If Marni’s collection asserted anything, it is that fashion cannot be bound by shapes as exploring new silhouettes is the future.
Antonio Marras’ realm of fantasy
Fashion storytelling is an exquisite craft and its maestro is Antonio Marras. Painting a whole new realm, Marras’ Fall/Winter 2024 collection transported viewers to the magnificent times of medieval Sardinia ruled by Princess Eleonora d’Arborea. The array of creations paid tribute to the Princess who was memorialised for her enlightenment and boldness; the backcloth of the show itself exuded a fantastical aura with a mysterious forest look and elongated tree branches.
Timely of the present uncertain climate, voluminous capes and cloaks were featured, signalling protection and cocooning. Marras commemorated the Sardinian heritage through knitwear, melding embroideries and ornate textiles. Damask slipdresses fabricated with floral patterns and brocades accented an ancient charm while checkered coats and satin dresses symbolised modern elegance, marking the collection’s seamless balance of both facets. Simply put, everything about Marras’ runway collection mirrored magic.
Featured image by versace on Instagram.
