Here’s everything you need to know about the Chanel, Dior and Prada Cruise 2020 shows.
Cruise 2020 fashion shows have ready begun, with Christian Dior leading the pack at the end of April. Chanel and Prada have since presented their respective collections, whereas Louis Vuitton’s show is set to take place at New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport Terminal tomorrow.
Before we turn our attention to the iconic TWA Flight Centre, however, we take a look at three of the world’s most recognised luxury brands’ presentations so far. Here’s everything you need to know, from the location to the inspiration and of course, the collection itself.
Christian Dior’s mystical Marrakech show
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Maria Grazia Chiuri kicked off the Cruise season at Marrakech with a presentation that couldn’t have embodied the essence of the Cruise collections better. The feminist artistic director joined the dots between culture, luxury and globalism through her collaborations with five designers and associations of varying backgrounds. The resulting collection saw recreations of the Maison’s signature motifs, namely the toile de jouy and tarot cards, made by Uniwax using 100% African wax; woven pieces designed by Moroccan textile and ceramics association, Sumano; as well as raffia embroideries by Jamaican-British designer Grace Wales Bonner.
There were print on print ensembles, fringed jackets and Bar suits of exceptional savior-faire and then there were white lace dresses fit for a bohemian princess. The scenography was no less sensational, featuring painting on pottery, the art of weaving and vegetal dyeing inspired by traditional Moroccan crafts.
Prada’s understated collection
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After Dior’s headlining presentation, the Prada show at its West 52nd Street Piano Factory headquarters took a U-turn in favour of minimalism. Prints and motifs were exchanged with the occasional stripes and checks. Classic, understated tailoring took centre stage, as portrayed through coats, utilitarian suits and A-line skirts.
In the words of Miuccia Prada, the collection was “the opposite of pretentious”. Peculiar, almost, for the house known for its loud, quirky details. But her collection was created with a different clientele in mind – those that appreciate the quiet, unfussy creations amidst the complex, hectic trends of today. The front row might give an indication of who’s included: Uma Thurman, Elle Fanning and Diane Kruger were among those spotted.
Virginie Viard’s creative debut at Chanel
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Virginie Viard has some big shoes to fill at Chanel in the wake of Karl Lagerfeld’s death, and fashion giant Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel before him. A smart, albeit safe, move then, was to host her first collection for the Parisian house at the iconic Grand Palais. As per tradition, the venue saw a transformation, this time into a Beaux-Arts style train station. There were no larger than life structures as Kaiser Karl would have had, however, aside from humble tracks in between train platforms.
This kept the attention on the collection, which presented a little bit of everything. It started off with suit and pants combos in an earthy palette, followed by house tweeds in bright pops of neon, shades of grey and soft pastels. A series of white and ecru skirts and dresses with floral appliques closed the show on a youthful, girly note. And the final look was an unmistakable homage to Karl in the form of a sleek halter dress with an Edwardian collar – monochrome, of course.
