In the Kitchen with Chef Joel Kirk of Zaataru, TTDI

On the first floor of a row of shophouses facing a residential area in Taman Tun Dr Ismail, we step into Zaataru, a casual dining restaurant brimming with carefree energy. Diners are greeted in different languages as they enter – sometimes it’s “irasshaimase” and other times it’s “marhaba” or a simple “welcome” – a small but deliberate gesture that reflects its ethos of cultural diversity. Even the staff here comes from various ethnicities, shaping its inclusive, culturally-curious setting.

Japanese hip-hop and J-pop beats pulse in the background, weaving a dynamic rhythm to the laid-back, cosmopolitan space. The air is fragrant with herbs and spices, teasing the senses and hinting at the unexpected flavour combinations to come. Chef Joel Kirk moves through the open kitchen with the kind of controlled ease that tells you he’s completely at home – with a neatly folded kitchen towel perched on his head, adding to the restaurant’s characteristic charm.

By the age of 15, Joel made a conscious decision to pursue a career in the culinary world. “I’ve always enjoyed the act of hospitality and the craft of cooking,” he reflects. His early years were shaped by a desire to absorb as much experience as possible – from chain restaurants and hotel kitchens to independent dining rooms, including well-known local establishments like Nathalie Gourmet Studio, Coley, and Sitka (now known as Studio Restaurant).

His path also included a three-month stage at Noma, one of the best restaurants in the world at the time. Each chapter sharpened his technique and broadened his perspective, eventually crystallising into Zaataru’s distinctive culinary identity: a thoughtful, modern marriage of Levantine and Japanese flavours.

Ahead of the restaurant’s dinner service, we sat down with Joel to unpack his F&B journey, the textures and flavours that anchor his cooking, and the moments that define Zaataru’s August debut.

Zaataru serves up Levantine-Japanese cuisine in TTDI.

Having worked in many different kitchens, what inspired you to start Zaataru?
Joel Kirk (JK): I’m an advocate for cross-cultural exploration. My deep appreciation and curiosity for different cultures highlight the quirks and similarities we all share.

Describe the concept and culinary approach at Zaataru.
JK: Zaataru is predominantly Levantine/Arab cuisine with a touch of Japanese influence. Understanding the building blocks of flavour and cultural norms has helped unlock new – and sometimes unlikely – combinations.

How did the idea of blending Levantine and Japanese flavours come about?
JK: It came through the lens of a consumer. The intermingling similarities between shawarma shops and izakayas, paired with the rise of curious and highly exposed taste buds, have eased the transition and opened up new possibilities. After all, we’re a melting pot here in Malaysia.

Chef Joel blends Levantine and Arabic flavours with a hint of Japanese influences at Zaataru.

What’s one dish you’ve made, past or present, that tells your story as a chef, and why?
JK: Most notably (or rather, freshest in memory) is Zaataru’s torched edamame with brown butter and labneh. The torching of raw beans is a technique I first saw in high-end restaurants, used to achieve optimal doneness and texture while incorporating smoke.

Brown butter – better known in French as beurre noisette – is highly regarded in French gastronomy for its nutty aroma created through fat caramelisation. Roasted pine nuts, a touch of salt, and a hint of lemon complete the flavour-bomb package. Serving it warm over a spread of cold, creamy labneh adds both textural contrast and a thermo-sensory element.

How do you approach building a menu? What’s your creative process?
JK: Inspiration comes in many shades and forms. I like to ask questions that challenge the norm. “What ifs” and “How woulds” take centre stage. One example was asking someone, “What do you have for breakfast, and how?” I learned that a staple Syrian breakfast is a mixture of tahini and grape molasses, which forms a creamy spread as the tahini thickens. It reminded me of peanut butter and jelly — and it even looks a little like kaya.

Zaataru’s torched edamame with brown butter and labneh.

Q: What’s the most unexpected thing you’ve had to cook (so far)?
JK: Vegetarian pasta made from scratch for a customer practising Jainism.

Q: Tell us about a moment in your career that challenged you the most.
JK: Pushing myself to work in the best restaurants – just to see if I could stack up – was one of my biggest challenges. It completely opened up my worldview on food and how controversial it can be across many aspects. I had to power through extremely long days physically, mentally, and emotionally, with the singular purpose of fulfilling my duty as a cook. Later, leading a team through stormy weather and uncertainty added another layer of responsibility and pressure.

Q: How do you see the local restaurant industry evolving in the next five years?
JK: The new generation of restaurants will likely lean toward cultural heritage and reinterpretations, reinforcing the vast culinary landscape we have in Malaysia. Many will incorporate cross-industry talents to create unique experiences that don’t revolve solely around food. Given the shortage of capable local workforce and rising operational costs, we’ll likely see smaller-scale independent restaurants becoming the norm.