Long celebrated for its Edomae-style omakase, Sushi Hibiki has become a go-to destination in Kuala Lumpur for those seeking refined, seasonal sushi served with precision and elegance. Now, the acclaimed Japanese restaurant is broadening its culinary horizons by welcoming an entirely new dimension of Japanese fine dining with the arrival of Chef Yoshiaki Hayami, a Kyoto-born master of Kaiseki cuisine.
Chef Hayami brings over 30 years of experience in traditional Kyoto-style cooking, joining the Sushi Hibiki team as a complement – not a replacement – to the restaurant’s existing omakase offering. His arrival marks a bold and exciting expansion of Sushi Hibiki’s repertoire, merging the art of Kaiseki with the restaurant’s signature Edomae style under the guidance of Executive Chef-Owner Makoto Saito Sam.
Having trained at some of Japan’s most prestigious institutions – including the Michelin three-star Kyoto Kitcho, The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto’s Tempura Mizuki (which earned a Michelin star in 2017), and KIZAHASHI at The Thousand Kyoto – Chef Hayami is revered for his mastery of delicate techniques and deep respect for seasonal ingredients.
“While I enjoy not being bound by convention and constantly evolving, my approach to Japanese cuisine is deeply rooted in the philosophy of ‘five tastes, five methods, and five colours,’” says Chef Hayami. “I believe this principle is universal across all cuisines. I pour my passion into perfecting a dish that only lasts for a moment, and I value each and every encounter.”
With Chef Hayami on board, the dining experience at Sushi Hibiki evolves into a poetic interplay between two philosophies of Japanese fine dining. Guests can now expect not just the refined precision of Edomae-style sushi crafted by Chef Sam, but also the nuanced elegance of Kyoto-style Kaiseki, meticulously prepared by Chef Hayami.
Reflecting this unique convergence, our omakase dinner starts with a plate of wild mountain vegetables served alongside ice fish and firefly squid, dressed in an egg yolk vinegar sauce that complements the natural flavours of each ingredient. A bowl of clam (hamaguri) soup follows, presenting a clear, delicate broth laden with intense umami notes. Chef Saito’s ensuing trio of sushi courses focus on the purity of each ingredient – carefully aged, seasoned, and sliced to perfection.
On the other hand, Chef Hayami introduces a multilayered journey through seasonal tastes, textures, and visual artistry. For one dish, he prepares a puffer fish ishiyaki-style (a Japanese culinary technique of cooking on hot stone) before serving it on a lemon. Aside from lending a hint of acidity to the fish, the citrus conceals a layer of nikogori (a jellied fish broth or fish aspic made from puffer fish) underneath. In another course, he carefully ladles kabu surinagashi (turnip soup) into a bowl and tops it off with amadai, juxtaposing the fish’s crispy scales with its smooth consistency.
The Hibiki dining experience is further distinguished by the penultimate sushi course, where in lieu of the “leave it up to the chef” practice that’s synonymous with omakase, diners get to choose from the restaurant’s fresh selection of seafood. This modern approach offers more engagement between chefs and patrons, and perhaps greater enlightenment on the variety of produce available for a particular season.
Together, their collaboration offers a rare duality: the immediate gratification of sushi’s clean simplicity alongside the reverential cadence of Kaiseki’s progressive presentation. It’s a seamless fusion that honours tradition while deepening the restaurant’s overall expression of Japanese culinary excellence.
Sushi Hibiki
Address: G7(A), Ground Floor, Four Seasons Place, 145, Jalan Ampang, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 50450
Opening hours: 6pm – 10pm (Monday – tempura omakase) | 6pm – 10pm (Tuesday – Sunday) | 12:30pm – 2:30pm (weekends)
Contact: +603 2383 0272
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All photos are writer’s own