Behind the Bar with Jon Lee, founder of Lavantha in Chinatown, KL

Beneath the vibrant, dynamic space that welcomes guests on the ground floor of the newly opened Moxy Kuala Lumpur Chinatown hotel is Lavantha, one of the latest additions to the city’s bar scene. Located in what was once the bank vault of Oriental Bank, the bar’s concept is as rich as its ambience, which forms a stark juxtaposition to the colourful sights in the buzzing neighbourhood.

There’s an air of anticipation as we make our way down a discreet, narrow spiral staircase to its industrial vault door entrance. (Guests can also enter from the basement parking, but we prefer the mystique of the former.) A dark, triangular corridor leads the way into the main bar area, featuring a bar counter and lounge sofas that comfortably seat up to 40 people.

A narrow, spiral black staircase leads the way to the entrance of Lavantha.

The space’s colour palette and design details look straight out of a scene from Dune, featuring raw textures, dim lighting, and clean architectural lines that altogether recall the American sci-fi film’s scenography. A futuristic monolith stands at the centre – a nod to the gold bars that once filled the space. Further inside, there’s an intimate cigar room that can be converted into a private space for events. Elsewhere, concealed behind a hidden door is The Conservatory (also called the Moss Room), a private room reserved for VIPs and close friends.

It bodes well to be in founder Jon Lee’s good books then, as well as the team behind Lavantha and its sister bar Penrose – Matthew Goh and Brandon Tan. Lee (who fronted FirstClasse Malaysia’s September 2023 cover) needs no introduction to regular bargoers, having won awards with his first bar venture and played a pivotal role in elevating the local drinks industry through Kuala Lumpur Cocktail Week (KLCW).

Step through Lavantha’s vault doors into a dimly lit entranceway with deep, warm tones.

“While I’ve had a strong affinity for the kitchen since a young age, bartending wasn’t part of my original plan,” Lee shares, recounting how he started out his career as a chef. The culinary arts graduate opened his first bistro at the age of 22, but the physical and mental demands of running the business ultimately took a toll on him.

He later moved on to work at a brasserie, before landing his first professional bartending role at Tippling Club in Singapore. There, he spent four years under the mentorship of Joe Schofield (formerly of the American Bar at the Savoy, London) and Ryan Clift (Chef-Owner of Tippling Club).

“After returning to Malaysia and weathering the challenges of the pandemic, I decided to open my first cocktail bar, Penrose,” he continues. Now armed with 14 years of experience in the food and beverage (F&B) industry, nine of which were behind the bar, Jon Lee reveals what to expect from his latest brainchild, Lavantha.

What sparked your decision to open another bar after Penrose?

Jon Lee (JL): It was more instinct than a calculated decision. A friend mentioned a potential location for a second bar – I was initially unsure, but when I learned it was a vacant space inside a former bank vault, my curiosity was piqued.

During the first site visit, the concept came to me almost immediately. Drawing inspiration from the design philosophy behind Penrose and our approach to bartending, I saw the opportunity to create something on a larger scale – one that allowed for bolder flavours and a more expansive experience.

Penrose will always remain our flagship, but I believe Lavantha is a meaningful addition to Malaysia’s evolving drinking landscape.

How did Lavantha come to life – what’s the story behind its name and concept?

JL: For me, the vision always begins with the space – I need to physically experience it to understand how it should feel and function. Once I stepped in, the concept formed naturally. Collaborating with Jun from POW Ideas made the design process seamless. He did a remarkable job translating and elevating the vision I had in mind.

As for the name, Lavantha came to me in a dream years ago. I journal every morning, and while revisiting past entries during the naming process, I stumbled upon the word. It immediately resonated. Lavantha has no clear origin – it feels as though it came from the heart. There’s something almost mythical about the way it sounds, and it fits the spirit and aesthetic of the bar perfectly.

Clean architectural lines, raw textures, and warm lighting define Lavantha’s interiors.

How would you describe your bartending philosophy?

JL: Intentional, minimal, relatable. These three words define our approach. Every drink begins with a clear foundation, built on balance and guided by the knowledge we hold as bartenders. Once the core structure is in place, we introduce an additional layer through techniques such as distillation, clarification, or other preparations that enhance the flavour.

From there, we refine, stripping away unnecessary steps to maintain clarity and purpose. Finally, we ask ourselves: Does this drink reflect who we are as a brand and a team, and does it resonate with our guests? That’s the final measure. It’s a back-and-forth process that keeps us creative while being consistent.

What’s your creative process for the cocktail menu at Lavantha?

JL: Drinks here are structured around four key principles: Core, Length, Contrast, and Evocation.

Core represents the main flavour we want to highlight – the essence of the drink.

Length adds body and depth, giving the cocktail structure and a lasting finish.

Contrast introduces an element that makes the flavours pop – something unexpected that brings tension and balance.

Evocation is the final layer, connecting the drink to the guest and making it feel familiar yet intriguing.

Together, these four elements form a framework that goes beyond just taste. It allows each cocktail to tell a story, anchored in flavour but elevated through emotion, memory, and curiosity. This is how we create drinks that not only satisfy but also stay with you.

What drink on the menu tells the most interesting story?

JL: I’d say the Veduras Dune cocktail best represents our philosophy. It’s a refined take on the Mojito, built with rum, capers, green mango, young white coconut, and mint. This drink encapsulates the four core principles that guide our cocktail creation.

Most of our drinks don’t follow a traditional narrative. Like art, they’re shaped more by emotional direction than by storytelling. If there’s any backstory to Veduras Dune, it’s simply that I’ve always enjoyed a well-made Mojito, so this is our riff on that timeless classic, reimagined with restraint and balance.

How do you build a sense of community around the bar?

JL: Communication, purpose, and direction – these, to me, are the foundations of a strong ecosystem. Most fractured communities break down due to miscommunication or a misunderstanding of intentions. But when communication is clear and intentional on both sides, the potential for growth and collaboration becomes limitless.

What’s one memorable encounter with a guest that has stuck with you?

JL: I have had plenty of encounters with this. Generally, it’s the kind, open-hearted individuals who stand out – guests who are as curious about the work we do as they are about enjoying it. Even if something isn’t to their usual taste, they’re open to trying something new with genuine interest. I can’t pinpoint a single most memorable guest, but over the years, I’ve formed some significant friendships with people I’ve had the privilege of serving repeatedly.

What’s something you wish more people understood about the bar industry?

JL: Taking straight spirit shots isn’t for everyone – it’s often the fastest route to chasing a high, and an even harder way to come down. I believe the best way to enjoy any drink, food, or venue is to sip, savour, talk, and take your time.

Drinking should be about connection, appreciation, and presence, not just the pursuit of intoxication.

Jon Lee helms both Lavantha and Penrose, armed with nine years of experience in the bar industry.

What’s your go-to cocktail to make and to drink?

JL: Vodka Martinis for days!

What’s one ingredient or spirit you’re obsessed with right now?

JL: We’ve been exploring the versatility of Madagascar vanilla, experimenting with highballs, sours, spirit-forward cocktails, and Martinis. Once we’ve refined the details, we look forward to unveiling something fascinating that highlights vanilla in a whole new light.

How do you see the local bar scene evolving in the next five years?

JL: There’s always going to be a bubble – it’s difficult to predict what the next five years will bring. However, considering what we’ve achieved over the past two years with KL Cocktail Week and the growth of other bars, the future looks promising.

That said, there is still a lot of work to be done to sustain the quality and integrity of our drinking culture, especially in the local market. I look forward to the journey ahead – not just because of the challenges, but because I know I’m not alone in building up Malaysia’s cocktail scene.