Balenciaga: Demna’s swansong
All eyes were on Balenciaga for what was confirmed as Demna’s final couture collection for the house. The Georgian designer closed this chapter with restraint and poetry, stripping away the irony that defined his earlier years. The silhouettes were sharply architectural but softened with sweeping cloaks, delicate veils, and a palette of moody neutrals. A standout moment was a floor-length coat that was constructed entirely from repurposed opera gloves, a quiet metaphor for legacy and transformation.
Schiaparelli: Gold-drenched dreams
At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry leaned unapologetically into fantasy. The collection was a gilded dreamscape, with impossibly cinched waists, structured surrealist bodices, and embroidery inspired by celestial maps. A sculptural gold bustier molded like molten armour stole the show, echoing Elsa Schiaparelli’s historic love of the otherworldly. Roseberry’s strength lies in making the improbable seem inevitable, and this season was no exception.
Maison Margiela: Galliano’s theatrical reverie
John Galliano returned to the Margiela runway with another avant-garde opera of texture, shadow, and emotion. The show was held at midnight in an abandoned Parisian ballroom, where models emerged like haunted muses in deconstructed ballgowns, feathers soaked in ink, and corsetry layered over raw silks. The collection was both disturbing and divine, and as much of a performance piece as it is couture.
Iris van Herpen: A return to the ethereal unknown
Making a much-anticipated return to the physical runway, Iris van Herpen unveiled a collection that pushed the limits of form and futurism. Inspired by bioluminescent sea creatures and celestial structures, her creations hovered between nature and technology. Dresses crafted from laser-cut organza and 3D-printed filaments shimmered with otherworldly light, while one kinetic bodice appeared to breathe with the body itself. In a week ruled by emotion and legacy, van Herpen offered a glimpse into a future where couture is an extension of evolution itself.
Chanel: A reimagined romance
At the Grand Palais Éphémère, Chanel presented a collection that nodded to its codes while reaching for something more nuanced. Virginie Viard played with dualities – masculine-feminine, hard-soft – with boucle suiting reimagined as sweeping coatdresses and soft tulle paired with structured leather. While subdued, the collection whispered of evolution, not reinvention, and hinted at a possible turning point for the Maison’s next chapter.
Armani Privé: Liquid elegance
Armani Privé delivered a masterclass in fluidity. Draped silks and sequined gowns shimmered like water under moonlight, with a colour story that moved from moonstone silver to deep sapphire. The pieces felt effortless, though every fold was deliberate. The atmosphere was serene and the craftsmanship flawless, which served as a reminder that quiet elegance never goes out of style.
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