Amidst the buzz and high stakes, we have picked out our top five highlights – from Alessandro Michelle for Valentino to Matthieu Blazy for Chanel.
1. Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga
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With a collection titled “The Heartbeat”, this collection was a direct result of Pierpaolo Piccioli bursting into Balenciaga‘s archives. It was enthralling to see the phantasm of old creative directors in the collection pervaded with the romance of Pierpaolo. One can easily spot the silhouette of Cristobal Balenciaga couture, the platform flip-flops of Demna, and the colourful knits of Nicolas Ghesquière. Watching the show in real-time was like an easter-egg hunting session of the maison’s legacy. It was beyond an homage, but also a direct recalibration. The collection read like a love letter to the maison, and the unfathomable, jaw-dropping creative mind of Pierpaolo was exactly what Balenciaga needed.
2. Alessandro Michelle for Valentino
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Always a crowd favourite, Alessandro Michelle brought forth an incandescent glow at Valentino’s SS26 show with the theme ‘Fireflies’. He narrated the message of hope, conveying fashion as an art that provides bliss and escapism amidst the ambient gloom. Underneath it lied a quiet rebellion, where baroque motives were invaded by sequins and statement earrings. With twinkling lights reflecting through the bodies of moving models, the shimmers looked almost glow-in-the-dark – instantly becoming the focal point of the show.
3. Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela
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We could not decide which part of Maison Margiela’s show was more chaotic – the unharmonised orchestra played by a band of 61 children, the maison’s logo in the mouthpiece (that immediately became the talk of the town), or the collection itself. One thing that stands out about the collection was the astonishing devil in the details, as revealed comprehensively on Maison Margiela’s Instagram. In the world of perfectionism, Margiela remained anti-aesthetic and camp. “I love the quirkiness of fashion that don’t make any kind of sense to wear,” said Margiela in an interview. As a result, Glenn Marten’s debut collection became the epitome of art being subjective, and it was very on-brand.
4. Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez for Loewe
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Loewe brought out arguably the most colourful collection this season, thanks to the newly joint creative directors. They showed that clothes can be clean while also being fresh and playful. The proof can be seen in the sunny palette, molded silhouettes, fringe trims, and glossy leather pieces. Footwear became the extended highlight of the collection, where models can be seen wearing transparent shoes with colourful nails or socks.
5. Matthieu Blazy for Chanel
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Meanwhile at Grand Palais, Matthieu Blazy transported his guests to a planetarium set right when they entered for his debut show. “This first Chanel show, I wanted to do something quite universal, like a dream, something outside of time. I was fascinated by the stars, a theme so dear to the House,” Blazy stated on his Instagram. “We all observe the same sky, and I think it provokes the same emotions in us.”
By the architectural motion of the clothes, the suffusion of colours, feathers, and the signature use of the brand’s tweeds – everything felt classic yet fresh, new, and very Chanel. Delivering his debut and the closing show of Paris Fashion Week brought an immense amount of pressure, but Blazy grasped both in the palm of his hands. The collection is definitely worth the wait and the hype.
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