From environmentally-sustainable sets to time-travelling collections, here are the SS20 shows that caught our attention at Paris Fashion Week.
Times are changing, and yet some things never change. Such is what we’ve gathered from Paris Fashion Week for the Spring-Summer 2020 season.
On the industry-shifting flank, there were shows like Dior’s and Stella McCartney’s that underlined environmental diversity and sustainability initiatives; whereas the likes of Louis Vuitton and Ralph & Russo brought back recurring retro vibes with their vibrant colours and prints.
Take a look at some of the common themes and respective shows that caught our attention at the City of Lights below.
Call for climate action
Leave it to Maria Grazia Chiuri to put on a show that’s larger than fashion. Her sustainability-focused SS20 collection for Christian Dior made its debut in an “inclusive garden” conceptualised by Paris-based environmental design collective, Coloco. Consisting of 164 trees of various origins, the space highlights the need for diversity and interdependence in the face of climate change – a notion that is reflected in the botanical-print dresses interwoven with mixed materials. To walk the talk, the entire set will be recycled or replanted in efforts to promote a zero-waste policy.
Sustainability champion Stella McCartney is doubling her efforts to reduce fashion waste with her most sustainable collection yet, in which more than 75 percent of materials used are eco-friendly. Her signature Savile Row tailoring and relaxed sportswear carried the collection, staying true to her minimalistic style with innovative fabrics like regenerated cashmere and sustainable raffia.
Return to retro
For her first ready-to-wear show since Kaiser Karl’s passing, Virginie Viard presented the epitome of the Parisian girl, not unlike Coco Chanel in her youth. A series of tweed playsuits and sequinned skirts signalled the couture house’s heritage, whilst striped cropped jackets and high-waisted denims gave us playful retro vibes. It’s not surprising that a prankster’s runway-crashing was almost mistaken to be part of the show, given the light-hearted nature of the collection.
Yes, the fact that Naomi Campbell closed Saint Laurent’s runway sparked social media buzz, but the open-air stadium set with a clear view of the Eiffel Tower was primed to be a spectacle from the start. Anthony Vaccarello kept up the excitement with a tribute to the founder’s legacy via his 1976 Russian collection, reiterated for today’s generation. His usual all-black cool-girl look showed its softer side with chiffon blouses and gold paisley embroidered dresses, echoing the romanticism of the show’s venue.
Louis Vuitton rounded off Fashion Week with a show walking down memory lane to France’s Belle Epoque era. Pouf sleeves, sequinned vests, iris boutonnières and references to ‘70s Biba signalled the romantic period in French history, which the designer carefully reimagined for the 21st century woman. Time-travel must be a real thing, at least in fashion – thanks to Nicolas Ghesquire’s genius.
Photos: Courtesy of respective brands