Paris Fashion Week – the last in sequence of the Big Four of Fashion (New York, London, Milan, and Paris) – has once again cemented its position as the epicentre of fashion innovation and sartorial elegance, particularly with the Men’s Spring/Summer ‘25 collections. As always, the biannual event in the French capital showcased a thrilling array of creativity, pushing boundaries and redefining the modern man’s wardrobe with their sneak peek of what is to come. Here is a deep dive into several standout collections from some of the most talked-about brands.
Loewe
Jonathan Anderson, Loewe’s creative genius, brought to us a contemporary collection that epitomises radicalism by way of micro and macro vertical silhouettes that still remain streamlined and precise. Every piece demonstrates the art of reduction, giving minimal details, with the main focus being the use of high quality materials for understated opulence, such as tops made of mother of pearl. More importantly, many of the pieces transitioned with movement, which seems to be the main theme of the collection.
The show opened with a black tailored suit that shows off texture and how it responds to volume, worn with elongated oxfords. What came next was a series of pieces that flowed freely, like trousers that moved back to front, the drape caught in a leather patch, a coat opening at the front, and knitted trousers that billowed like a ballgown. Adding to the graphic gestures were long feathers and a trio of feathers that enforced the vertical flow, as well as necklines and outlines.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton Men’s Artistic Director Pharrell Williams, through his collection, celebrated the humans that co-inhabit the Earth, reflecting the unifying spirit of the brand. Like many of the Maison’s past collections, the SS25 lineup is pretty much centred around travel and illustrates the degrees of similarities that bind us together across the globe. 82 looks went down the runway, featuring a cast of diverse nationalities, further substantiating the notion of travel and was apt given the 2024 Summer Olympics taking place in the city.
Akin to the numerous personalities you would find sauntering through an airport, the collection was focused on different archetypes of travellers (like leisure travellers, aircrew, and more). Clean and delicately subtle, the pieces, though looking overly simple from afar, packed a punch with meticulous details. Amongst the highlights were aviator bomber jackets, sleek uniform-like jackets, coats, and pants, and not forgetting, a new line of bags, such as the Alma, Christopher and Neverfull designs recreated in soft and supple leather. The trunks, designed in partnership with Air Afrique, were also an emblem of craftsmanship.
Dior
Kim Jones, the visionary behind Dior Homme, once again honoured the house’s storied heritage while injecting modern additions that resonate with today’s trend-conscious gentleman. Inspired by the work of South African conceptual pottery and ceramics artist Hylton Nel, many pieces featured the artist’s most recognisable works such as his dog drawing, other animal motifs, and patterns. This fun and arty collection resulting from this collaboration makes perfect sense given how pottery was an element that fascinated Monsieur Dior.
A harmonious blend of classic tailoring and streetwear influences, the silhouettes were mostly sculptural and voluminous in line with the shapes produced by ceramics. There were also charms that are miniatures of Nel’s work, found on headwear, as pins, and detailing on other accessories. Additionally, the iconic Saddle bag was given an update and remains an anchor for the collection.
Dries Van Noten
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has just bid Fashion Week goodbye with his last ever collection from his eponymous label, marking his 150th collection for the House and paying homage to the past 38 years of his career. Van Noten’s historic last runway show comprised 69 menswear looks, with 12 worn by the fairer sex, which clearly reflects the versatility of the brand that is so adored by many.
Transcending space and time, the looks for his final collection composed of many layers and textures of various opacities and transparency to create depth and intrigue. While mostly monochrome, there were also pops of colour in purples, lime, and peach, accented by metallics like gold embroidery. The metallic detailing is made using unique stitch techniques to produce a degradé of fine lines and Suminagashi (translates to “ink floating”), a traditional Japanese marbling technique leveraged to create some of the collection’s floral and firework designs.
Kenzo
Taking place at Jardin Du Palais Royal, Artistic Director NIGO’s Kenzo collection for SS25 captured the essence of urban nomadism, blending streetwear and high fashion for an daring yet chic Parisian safari-themed 52-look lineup that felt both accessible and aspirational. The collection was characterised by the Japanese designer’s bold use of colour and patterns, with a particular emphasis on graphic prints, breathable embroidery, and logos as well as various cultural references that bridge Paris and Tokyo.
Oversized jackets, double-breasted suits, loose-fitting trousers, netted tanks and statement accessories such as wide-brimmed hats and multifaceted sling bags defined most of the silhouettes, culminating in looks that were both relaxed and refined. It is clear that NIGO’s vision for Kenzo is one that embraces the spirit of exploration and adventure, making it ideal for the fashion-forward urbanite who is always on the go.
