One of the Big Four of fashion weeks, the Milan Fashion Week, once again dazzled with its Men’s Spring/Summer ‘25 collections. After the understated luxury of classics reimagined in a slightly relaxed approach from Autumn/Winter ‘24, menswear is experiencing an increasingly laid-back and playful moment. This season, runways were a testament to the ingenuity and artistry of some of the most revered fashion houses, spotlighting fine details and impeccable fabrics. Here is a closer look at some of the standout collections.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons embraced minimalism with a sophisticated twist, both understated and avant-garde, toying with the contemporary notions of truth and pretence, the real and unreal. Juxtaposition and contrast took centre stage, and though when viewed from afar the pieces may seem overly simplistic, a closer look reveals that they are nothing but. There is an unreal dynamism displayed, as if the clothes are alive themselves.
Timeless yet visually streamlined, Prada’s collection featured suits and shirts that were purposefully creased, sweaters with wired details at the collars and hems to give off the illusion as if worn on top of a collared shirt, trousers with inlaid leather detailing that appeared flat, and Bernard Buffet paintings printed on T-shirts. Bags were made of suede but resembled canvas bags, and footwear were either sleek or absolutely in-your-face. As per the idea of closeness, Prada and Simons explored the concept of borrowed clothing, particularly those of our parents, that never sat quite right and were either a tad too small or a bit too large.
Gucci
Brought to us by Creative Director Sabarto De Sarno, Gucci’s SS25 collection was a masterclass in blending enduring elegance with contemporary influences, amplifying on wearability over elaborate ideas. While some may argue that De Sarno’s collection seems pretty elementary and lacks a solid, unified sentiment flowing through, his aesthetic this time around makes a statement that shouts versatility and isn’t prohibited to one ideal.
The collection featured a rich amalgamation of bold textures and patterns (surfers, hibiscus flowers, dolphins, and banana leaves) perfect for the season, with a strong emphasis on tailoring. Classic pieces like double-breasted blazers and pleated trousers were given a modern update with bright colours and innovative cuts, while oversized tops were left untucked, giving off a urban-coastal narrative. De Sarno’s iconic Horsebit hardware detail also makes a grand appearance this time around on boots, belts, and more.
Valentino
Valentino surprise-dropped its new Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s 171-piece collection for SS25, which is beyond impressive given that he just began his tenure roughly two months ago. Michele waved goodbye to quiet luxury in true maximalist fashion, capturing the essence of romanticism but with a fresh perspective for the season. Drawing inspiration from Valentino’s archives, Michele’s love for the ‘70s still stands prominent and the models looked as though they were playing dress up right out of grandma’s jewellery box.
The decadent collection, titled Avant les Débuts, is a vibrant palette of pastel hues and daring prints, comprising bouclé coats, co-ords with Peter Pan collars, tweed high-waisted trousers with bell-bottoms, a cheetah-print shirt and skirt combo with a brown faux fur trim, and more. Every garment has its own form of depth, making each one a showstopper, particularly when paired with the excessive accoutrements like chunky chains and enormous earrings that pass off as door knockers.
Fendi
As the brand celebrates 100 years old, menswear and accessories designer Silvia Venturini Fendi’s collection was a celebration of nostalgia infused with a modern flair, paying homage to the brand’s rich heritage. Utility-inspired pieces such as cargo pants and safari jackets were reimagined with elaborate detailing. Earthy tones and muted pastels created a harmonious colour palette, while the incorporation of bold accessories added a touch of whimsy.
The collection also heavily featured four of the fashion house’s motifs, such as the famous double-F embellishing various pieces like tops, jackets, shirts, trench coats, and bags, on top of showcasing the Italian house’s exceptional craftsmanship and innovation. Amongst the more laid-back pieces in the collection included semi-sheer shirts, sleeveless rugby tops, and boxy shirts and shorts.
MSGM
Massimo Giorgetti’s MSGM brought a flamboyant burst of energy to the SS25 season with a collection that was both eclectic and vibrant. Taking cues from youth culture and streetwear, the collection was a loud riot of colour and print consisting of bold graphics, tie-dye patterns, and oversized silhouettes, reflecting a carefree and rebellious spirit in a way that yet still appears refined.
Giorgetti’s use of unexpected fabric combinations and cheeky details made each piece distinct, celebrating individuality and self-expression by way of slouchy deconstructed suits and button-downs, clashing prints like abstract florals that turned up on many of the looks, patent leather trench coats, as well as knitted tops and tees splashed with geometric patterns and live sea animals. MSGM also debuted its inaugural New Balance partnership on the runway, with models sent off with low-top kicks paired with striking laces.
Tod’s
Helmed by Creative Director Matteo Tamburini, Tod’s human-centred SS25 collection entitled Made in Italy is based on artisanal intelligence and epitomises effortless sophistication. Functional, stylish and made for the modern man, neutral tones and classic silhouettes were the hallmarks of the collection. It highlights materiality, quality, and classic Italian craftsmanship, but also the techniques and thorough human-centred production processes that cannot be replaced, though may be backed by advancing technology.
Tamburini’s collection featured the softest and lightest leather as well as innovative linens, making performance and visual design his priority, and supporting the values of human touch at the future of high fashion. This is delivered by way of an array of outerwear (bombers, blazers, overshirts, and jackets), relaxed tops, perfectly structured bottoms, and accessories (the Di Bag reimagined, shopper bags, and belts). The footwear segment also introduced the new sabot version of the Iconic Gommino in earth-toned hues, aside from the debut of the Bubble Gommino in a new boat model featuring a T-bar accessory.
Zegna
Zegna’s SS25 collection, designed by Alessandro Sartori, was a remarkable take on modern minimalism. The youthful collection featured clean lines and a muted colour palette, doubling down on tailoring and fabric innovation. Paying ode to the delicate textile, the collection, aptly named L’Oasi di Lino (an oasis of linen), is an ideal blend of form and function, flowing with formalwear, pop-collared vests, printed silk sets, and woven button-downs, while two-toned polos, lightweight jackets, and matching shorts are made of the same cloth.
Following its concept based on linen, Sartori ponders over the notion that nothing is ever really what it seems, thus resulting in a collection brimming with pieces that may look similar at first glance but are unique in their own ways. All the pieces also feature sustainable materials and ethical production methods that underscores Zegna’s commitment to environmental sustainability.