The illustrious land where fabric artistry attained its apogee, Uzbekistan is home to some of the finest textile-makers the world has seen. Luxurious cloths which originate here are made of dreams, with the very first creations dating back to ancient times. Endowed with the coveted spot in the centre of the world by trade routes, this region is synonymous to textile opulence with a distinct specialty in silk and cotton.
Assouline’s newest title in its Classics series, Uzbekistan Silk & Gold: The Magnificent Art of Costume, is an ode to the diverse traditional textile-making techniques conceived by artisans over centuries.
It all begins with a journey back in time to nineteenth-century Uzbekistan – to the acme of regal splendour of the emirs of Bukhara. This was the era when gold, silk and velvet costumes experienced the earliest form of peak handiwork. From the courtly chapans (traditional robe) wholly embellished with zardozi (golden embroidery) and stunning gemstones alongside women-made suzani wall hangings which illustrate heaven through embroidery, abr fabrics fashioned by the hand-woven ikat technique as well as elaborate jewellery, every inch of these Uzbek-borne wonders exemplifies its deeply-rooted glorious heritage.
The author Yaffa Assouline shares, “An entire poetic world, including solar signs and beliefs in magic is incorporated in Uzbek textiles.” The symbols and motifs that hold cultural significance include floral motifs, the Tree of Life, the Sun and Moon, birds, geometric patterns, calligraphic elements and protective amulets and talismans.
Spanning 308 pages and housing over 200 breathtaking illustrations by Laziz Hamani, Uzbekistan Silk & Gold: The Magnificent Art of Costume chronicles the high art gems pursued by collectors and museums across the world and the persisting connection between craftspeople and the world of trade. An intricate attempt at sharing these magnificent Uzbek masterpieces beyond its shores, the book elegantly preserves the much-cherished traditions.
For more information, visit Assouline.
Featured image by Laziz Hamani.
