A six-day affair that bore witness to an overflow of creativity and artistry that continues to redefine fashion, New York Fashion Week mesmerised, as always. It is undisputedly one of the events in the yearly fashion calendar that is much looked forward to – from stunning collection launches to bewitching runway struts and a plethora of debut designers, the annual NYFW shrouds the Big Apple in glamour. The Fall/Winter 2024 was no exception, offering enticing fashion twists that became the talk of the town.
While this fashion spectacle usually shines the spotlight on Western designers, a dynamic trend within the industry has gifted Asian talents the opportunity to take the centre stage. Over recent years, numerous Asian designers have created ripples with their collections that are imbued with rich cultural heritage of their homelands. Some even take it up a notch, refashioning traditional notions with contemporary touches. At the heart of it all, the experience of growing up Asian gleams through these designers’ works, depicting how this can manifest itself in fashion in many different ways.
Ahead, we take a look at five Asian designers who impressed with their remarkable opuses at this year’s NYFW:
Bibhu Mohapatra
Throughout his sixteen years in business, Indian designer Bibhu Mohapatra only ever staged one evening show. That changed at this year’s NYFW where Mohapatra dreamt up a collection that served as a tribute to the famed photographer Helmut Newton and his muses. Inspired by the artist’s daring and sensuous works, Mohapatra reimagined these qualities through a much more dignified lens – the designer’s Fall/Winter collection honours women empowerment. The exquisite array comprised tailored garments with sculpted shoulders and lineal silhouettes coupled with volume skirts. Subdued tones of blue, ivory and cactus green atop crepes, tulle and Indian cashmere together conceived Mohapatra’s marvellous ‘Newton’s Law’.
Kim Shui
Chinese-born womenswear virtuoso Kim Shui embraced the mighty dragon as muse for her bold and sustainable Fall-Winter 2024 collection. Drawing inspiration from the Japanese painter Kazuo Shiraga and his intense masterpieces, the hue palette for Shui’s collection covered vibrant greens to deep oxbloods. Shui seamlessly utilised vegan snakeskin and fur garments in her assemblage of mini dresses and laced pieces that intended to bring out the powerful ‘mother dragon energy’. Through oversized plush trapper hats that resemble dragon costumes worn during the Lunar New Year, Shui furthered her act of homage to her heritage.
Jason Wu
Taiwanese-Canadian designer dives into the mystiques of the nocturnal world with his newest collection. Set against a dim backcloth illumined by warm lights and accompanied by a calming soundtrack, Wu evoked a strong sense of enchantment for his range of garments that were laced with elegance and mystery. He brought to the runway creations such as a distressed dress in a dramatic red shade and a sheer top adorned with dark forest motifs. Through ‘Nocturne’, Wu painted NYFW with an alluring aesthetic that certainly left a lasting impression.
Prabal Gurung
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Renowned Nepalese-American designer Prabal Gurung is adored for his indelible flair – with expressive patterns of artistic intricacies and skilful incorporation of fabrics, Gurung has established himself as a master designer since his 2009 Fashion Week debut. This time around, his collection ‘Fragmented Memories’ was rooted in transforming a heavy emotion, grief, into healing comfort. What then materialised were silhouettes that struck a balance between melancholy and warmth – floral organza dresses and sherpa bombers reflected the former while red garments reflected the latter. The collection, in more ways than not, also symbolised the continuous dialogue between the East and the West that Gurung often explores in his collections.
Sandy Liang
New York-based designer Sandy Liang gracefully quenched our curiosity on what the cool girls shall wear this coming fall. The answer is rather simple: it’s time for the inner school girls to resurface. Dedicating her collection to her princesses (as she calls her customers), Liang’s collection featured cosy knitwear ornamented with varsity details and rosettes as well as cream satin dresses and pastel fleeces. Girlhood is all things beauty, and Liang’s collection reasserts this truth.
Featured image by prabalgurung on Instagram.