Now, one year on, head chef Jun Wong and the team continue to celebrate their ‘elemental cooking’ approach to food and dining with the launch of an all-new menu. We got a first taste of the new menu at their anniversary celebration event, which gave us a taste of 10 dishes, creatively crafted with the ‘primitive’ cooking ethos that Yellow Fin Horse champions.
Flame-grilled, charred, succulently roasted – fire-driven techniques were at the centre of the meal, and the ‘sculpted by fire’ theme that was set for the menu was an apt preparation for what we would experience. Aside from the flame, Chef Jun’s pickled and fermented feats were present too, alongside ingredients and produce that were evidently sourced with love and care.
A meal sculpted by fire
First, the starters: a pear and ricotta mille feuille that was delightfully savoury, despite its name. The fourme d’ambert cheese paired well with the Packham pears, while the ricotta lent its creamy texture that contrasted against the crunch of the maple-walnut biscuit. Then, a chickpea puff, served on white tahini, stuffed with Moroccan lamb shank – a comforting and warm combination of textures and flavours that reminded us of the Mediterranean and also of home.
Next, the playfully named watermelon sugar high, that was (again, unlike its name) tangy, sour, slightly spicy and refreshing; a combination of salmorejo meets carpaccio, with pickled skin and sweet fresh watermelon cubes, that cuts through the tangy tomato-rich base.
Then it was time for the mains, starting with burnt cabbage with plant-based XO sauce and chargrilled aubergine with ricotta and black tahini, rendered sweet from the kiss of the flame and achieving a perfect balance with the umami-rich accoutrements. These vegetarian dishes led straight into the lamb loin roast that was cooked to the right blush, served with smoked buttermilk sauce, scallion relish and roasted onion.
The seafood paella was next, simply named ‘our paella’ as the culinary team presents their take on this Spanish favourite. Served family style in the pan with obsiblue prawns and a whole head of roasted garlic, the best part (for me) was the socarrat crust. Crunchy and crispy, punctuated by the rich seafood flavour.
For our final main, the whole roasted local French poulet, slow cooked and finished on charcoal, presented in its most simple form and with its flavours expertly coaxed out by the Yellow Fin Horse’s mastery of fire. Served with chicken gravy and basil pesto on the side, it was diner’s choice to enjoy the chicken on its own or with the accompaniment of the sauces.
Last but not least, the semifreddo ended our meal on a cool and sweet note. Soft-frozen and served with sumac infused strawberries that were both sweet and tart, dessert served a refreshing end to the meal.
Paired with signature cocktails
The Koko features cacao infused gin as its main spirit.
Nasi Bakar uses a toasted rice syrup together with sherry, amaro montenegro and shiso leaf infused vermouth.
Fig syrup and lemon meets miso washed whiskey in the Ara.
The aptly named Rempah uses rempah empat beradik syrup with vodka, macino sakura vermouth and grapefruit.
Along with the curated natural sparkling wine list that Yellow Fin Horse prides itself on, new signature cocktails have also been added to the menu, including the Koko with cacao husk infused gin, lemon juice, tamarillo jam, basil syrup and egg white; and the Nasi Bakar with the flavours of toasted rice syrup with amontillado sherry, shiso leaf infused sweet vermouth, amaro Montenegro and aromatic bitters.
They also offer zero proof signature cocktails like the spicy Panas which features cherry tomato shrub, dill syrup, lime, and fermented chili in a galangal beer based. If you’re looking for something more sweet and sparkling, then the carbonated Timon with lacto-fermented cucumber, watermelon, lime, and sugar might be more your speed.
Serving fuss-free, made-to-share dishes, Yellow Fin Horse’s new menu is all about the balance between fun exploration and technique-driven executions. Gather your friends round a table at Yellow Fin Horse to try these Sculpted by Fire dishes for yourself, and take the time to enjoy the company you have alongside the stellar food you’ll be sharing.
Yellow Fin Horse is located in Else Kuala Lumpur and serves dinner on Wednesdays to Sundays. Learn more or reserve a table here.
Read more dining reviews here.
