For years, ATAS played in the realm of modern international cuisine. Now, it’s turning inward. Nestled inside The RuMa Hotel, whose name draws from the Malay word for “home”, ATAS is now taking a more grounded approach that reflects the cultural spirit of the hotel.
Under the direction of Executive Chef Suhalmi Tasir, its newly launched menu is a confident homage to Malaysian heritage through thoughtful refinement of beloved flavours. It’s a culinary pivot that feels both overdue and just right, offering a sense of place on every plate without sacrificing the polish ATAS is known for.
We were recently invited to experience this revamped culinary direction firsthand, and the message was clear from the moment the first dish arrived: this isn’t fusion. It’s not reinterpretation for the sake of novelty. This is Malaysian food, seen through the eyes of a chef who understands where it comes from and where it can go.
A closer look at the new menu
Familiar but fine-tuned, the first appetisers offered a subtle introduction to a menu that honours tradition through skill. The Udang Galah Otak-Otak, a gently steamed and grilled fish cake made from river prawn and local spices, had the soft, pudding-like texture you’d expect of the Southeast Asian classic.
With salmon roe offering a pop of brininess, the dish carried depth while staying delicately balanced. Alongside it, the Kerabu Kacang Botol delivered a bright, herbaceous crunch, with torch ginger and lime adding sharp, zesty contrast – a lively start to what followed.
Next came the Laksam Kelantan, a dish that stole the spotlight early. Silky rice noodle rolls were bathed in a luxuriously creamy white coconut fish gravy, aromatic with local herbs. It was comforting yet elevated, and if there’s one thing not to miss from the menu, it’s this.
For mains, we were served a generous spread that showcased the heart of Chef Suhalmi’s culinary philosophy. The Beef Rib Rendang Tok, which the chef has been perfecting since he was 10 – a recipe passed down from his father – was another clear standout from the new menu. The meat was fall-apart tender, deeply infused with caramelised spices and toasted coconut.
The Ayam Bakar Percik featured organic chicken grilled over a wood fire, its skin lightly charred and smoky. It was generously coated in a creamy, spiced sauce made with coconut milk, garlic, chillies, onion, and lemongrass, delivering warmth and depth in every bite.
The Udang Galah Sambal followed with large river prawns cooked in a punchy blend of fermented shrimp paste, tamarind, galangal, and stinky beans, with kaffir lime leaf adding a bright, citrusy lift.
Rounding out the mains, the Nam Yu Snake Bean offered a simple but flavourful stir-fry of long beans with garlic, onions, and fermented bean curd, bringing a savoury, umami-rich close to the course.
To finish, we enjoyed two desserts from the new menu that offered a playful yet respectful nod to local favourites. The Bubur Cha-Cha Parfait reimagined the beloved street-side treat as a composed plate of yam, sweet potato, and sago, topped with airy coconut Chantilly.
Then came the Ais Sagat, a hand-shaved ice dessert layered with pandan cendol, red mung beans, palm sugar, and coconut – all the essential flavours of a classic Malaysian indulgence.
A menu that finally feels at home
What makes this menu shift especially resonant is how seamlessly it reflects The RuMa’s own identity. With its handwoven textures, locally inspired decor, and a name that translates to “home,” the hotel has always embraced its Malaysian spirit with quiet sophistication. Now, with ATAS stepping confidently into a new culinary chapter, that sense of place feels more complete.
Helmed by Executive Chef Suhalmi Tasir, ATAS invites both hotel guests and local diners to experience a thoughtfully curated journey through Malaysia’s rich culinary heritage. The refreshed menu encourages guests to rediscover the soul of local flavours through expressive plating, heritage techniques, and contemporary finesse.
This isn’t just a change in cuisine, it’s a redefinition of how ATAS fits within The RuMa. The food now speaks the same language as its surroundings, creating a dining experience that feels cohesive, intentional, and rooted in Malaysian identity.
With this refreshed direction, ATAS doesn’t just serve Malaysian food. It honours it – and that feels right at home at The RuMa.
ATAS at The RuMa Hotel & Residences
Address: 7, Jalan Kia Peng, 50450 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours:
Breakfast | 6:30am – 10:30am daily
Lunch | 12:00pm – 2:30pm daily
Dinner | 6:00pm – 10:00pm daily
Contact: +60 3 2778 0763 | atas@theruma.com
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