Here’s the thing about fashion trends: they always come and go. Polka dots, butter yellow, animal prints – it could be the hottest next thing, but once you see it widely in the mass market, it might be about time to call it off. Some trends are fun and last for a good two seasons – others are best left in their heydays.
In our ongoing series Stay or Stray, we discuss a new emerging trend, its origins and journey through fashion history before revealing our verdict on whether the said trend is here to stay or destined to stray.
This time, we’re going back to the glory of military jackets in the 2010s, when Olivier Rousteing dressed up the hottest fashion celebrities in over-the-top shoulders that truly captured everyone’s attention. Some classic examples include Rihanna during her Unapologetic era and Beyoncé’s Renaissance World Tour. But now, over a decade later, fashion houses are bringing it back. Who would have thought?
Ahead, we trace the evolution of military jackets throughout the decades, from their historical roots to modern interpretations – and whether it’s worth the revival in fashion.
From the military to the runway
The precise tailoring, epaulettes, and frog-toggle fastenings of the military jacket first appeared on the uniforms of the Hungarian cavalry, the Hussars, in the 15th and 16th centuries. The design was later adopted by European armies in the 17th and 18th centuries, and by the 19th century, it had become the defining look of officers – dashing, decorated, and unmistakably commanding.
Much later, the jacket found its way into pop culture when The Beatles wore acid-bright military costumes for their eighth album, Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. The outlandish choice was said to satirise England’s Edwardian era in the early 20th century, but some also saw it as a symbol of counterculture with an anti-war message. Regardless, many other artists such as Mick Jagger, Jimi Hendrix, and even the king of pop, Michael Jackson, soon followed suit in wearing a military jacket on stage.
Fast forward to the 21st century, British rock band Coldplay famously wore colourful Napoleonic-inspired military jackets during their Viva La Vida world tour in 2008. “The band is against the things that make you not enjoy life, like occasionally questioning authority or scriptures that make you not be able to enjoy your life in a way you do. Maybe it’s about rebelling against those things,” Coldplay drummer Will Champion explained.
Fashion houses soon embraced the trend, which was famously seen in Emilio Pucci’s Fall/Winter 2009 collection and Balmain’s collaboration with H&M in 2015, which brought the look to the mass market.
The revival
Military jackets returned to the runway over a decade later. It began at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2026, notably in Jonathan Anderson’s debut collection for Dior Men. Then, in Alexander McQueen’s S/S 2026 collection, as well as the Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Polo Ralph Lauren for Fall 2026.
While the defining characteristics of the military jacket are still present, they have also been updated for the modern era. Cropped silhouettes, novel fabrics, and fresh hues pay homage to the style’s utilitarian origins while blending in with a contemporary wardrobe, bringing a sense of authority to any outfit.
Final verdict
While designers may include this braided outerwear in their latest collections, the mass audience now values practicality and sustainability – not just in the environmental sense, but also how long a trend is likely to last. While it is a good fashion statement amidst the current political situation, the trend is bound to Stray.
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