Balmain confirmed on Wednesday that Olivier Rousteing has exited the maison, marking the end of his 14-year reign as creative director. The fashion world was devastated by the news, but one thing remains certain: his legacy of iconic designs will continue to become an inspiration for many.
Rousteing attended the Ecole Supérieure des Arts et Techniques de la Mode and kickstarted his design journey at Roberto Cavalli. He began working for Balmain in 2009 under Christophe Decarnin, and it was only two years later that he was appointed as creative director for Balmain in 2011. He was only 24 years old – imprinting his name as one of the youngest Parisian-leading designers and the first Black designer to lead a French luxury company. In an industry still battling with representation, even the mere act of his appointment has already made history.
As we grieve and process the end of his Balmain era, we dig through the archives to discuss his story, stepping stones, and best moments throughout his heritage to remember him by.
Spring/Summer 2012
Rousteing’s debut show extended his mentor Christophe Decarnin’s signature heavily embedded designs while imprinting his own essence. His debut collection made a statement: he’s there, loud, and proud – unapologetically bold and cloaked with structure and sparkles. He sparked revenue for Balmain’s name, attracting major fashion muses like Rihanna and Beyonce.
Fall/Winter 2012
Rousteing further wooed audiences with his Fall/Winter 2012 show. There was a story behind it: he was inspired greatly by his first visit to New York, specifically during Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery auction. It was love at first sight between Rousteing and a Faberge egg, a gift from Richard Burton to Elizabeth Taylor. The collection set his design name in stone and was reimagined during his 10-year anniversary collection, worn by Carla Bruni in 2021 and Lil Nas X for the Grammys in 2022.
H&M Collaboration 2015
The year was 2015 – Balmain had collaborated with H&M as part of their annual guest designer collaborations. Faces of the collaboration included Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid. Instagram, on the other hand, was drenched with posts about #BalmainHMNation. Together with H&M, Balmain created a 109-piece collaboration. Each detail of the collaboration reflected the essence of Balmain. With big shoulders, bold shapes, and heavy embellishments at a lower price point, the collection was made for the dreamers everywhere.
Spring Couture 2019
After 17 years, Balmain returned to the Haute Couture Calendar under Rousteing. He had one question in mind: What is couture in the 21st century? As a result, for his first couture show, Rousteing revealed intricate details. Swarovski crystal pearls were woven into gleaming fabrics, and patterns were graffitied as a rebellion to couture – all while channeling the spirit of Monsieur Balmain in his designs.
Tyla’s Met Gala dress 2024
It was no collection, but Balmain’s team used sand and micro crystals for Tyla’s dress during the Met Gala 2024, keeping to the Garden of Time dress code. Each camera flash reflected the dress beautifully, wrapping beautifully around Tyla’s figure that looked like it was sculpted by the gods. This motif further inspired Balmain’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection.
“I am deeply proud of all that I’ve accomplished and profoundly grateful to my exceptional team at Balmain, my chosen family, in a place that has been my home for the past 14 years,” said Rousteing in an interview. “As I look ahead to the future and the next chapter of my creative journey, I will always hold this treasured time close to my heart.” We’ll keep an eye on his next path after his leave.
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