To humanity, there’s nothing that’s quite as precious as time. Its continuous passing serves as a marker of progress and by which our entire history is measured. It’s no wonder then that man has always tried to capture time, and the tools with which they do are constantly some of civilisation’s greatest inventions.
To most, the humble wristwatch is a practical tool, but to a watch collector and enthusiast like Luo Yong Wen, watches are masterpieces of art and craftsmanship, and the mechanical pieces he owns span all categories and brands across haute horology.
“It started back in 2015, around the time the Apple Watch first launched. Prior to that, I never wore a watch in my life,” Yong Wen explains. And at the start, the smartwatch was enough for him. “One of my friends, who was already a watch collector then, showed me various pieces from his collection, but to no avail. I had no interest whatsoever – until the James Bond movie Spectre came out.”
As a fan of James Bond, seeing the Omega Seamaster 300M “Spectre” Limited Edition was a pivotal point. “That was actually my first watch, which my parents gifted to me after I aced my college exams,” he explains. That particular piece proved special to Yong Wen for more reasons than its appearance in the film.
“It had a few facelifts in terms of design as compared to the regular [Seamaster] line. It has a lollipop seconds hand, as well as a very robust and masculine look to it with the NATO strap. Even the box has a combination lock in the front, and you had to input 007 to open it, which is quirky, but very, very cool,” he gushes.
Amassing a collection
From James Bond fan to watch enthusiast to watch collector, the evolution only took around one to two years. “Of course, watches are expensive, so it was after I started my business that I started collecting quite heavily,” he says.
Following from the Omega Spectre limited edition piece, Yong Wen’s second watch, and the one what marked the true start of his watch collector’s journey, was the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, nicknamed the “Tintin” watch. A timepiece with an interesting history, it was a chance encounter that led to the purchase. “I was browsing Sincere Watches, and this was back when they still retailed Omega pieces here. I noticed the watch sitting in the display case, and going back quite a few times, it was just there. It seemed nobody wanted it, so it piqued my curiosity,” he starts.
Upon closer inspection, the watch reminded Yong Wen of two things: a racing track thanks to the checkered motif around the dial’s edge, and a candy cane thanks to the red and white colouring. He managed to bargain for the piece and bought it for only RM11,000, a price you’d never see on any Omega watch today.
It became one of Yong Wen’s favourite pieces, and it was only later, after owning it for some time, that he learnt the history behind the release and discovered the Tintin moniker. And though there was no official collaboration between Omega and Herge, the publisher of Tintin, the nickname stuck and turned the watch into a collector’s piece.
But for Yong Wen, collecting is never about owning what the market or other people think of as valuable. He has amassed a diverse collection of mechanical watches over the years, all with one thing in common: the simple fact that he likes each piece.
He isn’t necessarily drawn to a specific style of watch, nor does he have exact requirements that his next piece needs to meet. He explains, “I look at [a watch] as a whole, harmoniously. Of course, the first thing that catches my eye would be the dial and how it looks overall, the aesthetics of it and the design. But then the second and most important thing, would be the movement and the finishing of it.”
From the impulse-bought Zenith Star El Primero Love chronograph to the clean edges of the Patek Philippe Cubitus, and not to forget the stunning limited edition Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Apollo XVII”, Yong Wen's collection is as diverse as his tastes.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41MM with celebration dial is one of Yong Wen's most worn pieces, while commemorative ones like the Ulysse Nardin Clasico Ginza limited edition and marvel of the MB&F HM 7 mark moments in his life.
“For me personally, I don’t really care what other people think of my collection or my taste. Primarily, I would just buy what I like. This is something I would also encourage other enthusiasts and watch collectors who are just starting up to do. Don’t be coerced by others as to what you should, can or can’t buy,” he advises.
Collecting time, acquiring history
The piece that Yong Wen considers the ‘heart’ of his collection is also his (current) favourite watch, the Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Lighthouses of France” (ref. 5089G-121) which depicts the La Vieille lighthouse on the coast of Brittany during a raging storm.
“Patek Philippe made two versions of this, one in a calm setting and then this piece with crushing waves and a thunderstorm. To me, there’s a lot of symbolic meaning, with the lighthouse as a beacon of hope and resilience, standing firm despite the waves crashing into it,” Yong Wen narrates, sharing a glimpse into why this piece in particular is so important to him.
He adds, “In addition, there’s also the sheer craftsmanship behind it, from the enamel dial, which is handcrafted at the Patek Philippe atelier, to the unique hunter’s caseback that protects the movement. It’s a historical case setting, and today is a very sophisticated form of case back.”
And like any self-professed watch collector, Yong Wen already has his eye set on more timepieces to add to his collection, the first of which is the REXHEP REXPI Chronomètre Contemporain II, or the RRCC II.
“Rexhep Rexpi is a young talent in watchmaking who managed to create a movement that is symmetrical, which not many have done. The brand REXHEP REXPI is an independent one, and Michael Tay of The Hourglass, who is a good friend of mine, actually kickstarted this project with Rexhep himself. Little did they know it would be such a hit and that it would win awards at the Grand Prix D’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG),” Yong Wen expands.
The RRCC II also features a case crafted by a legendary casemaker, Jean-Pierre Hagmann – known by the signature JHP – who recently passed on. He continues, “The RRCC carries all forms of fine watchmaking, from the JHP case to the architecture of the movement, the anglage, as well as enamel dials with Côte de Genève. It really has everything.”
Other than that, he shared three more watches on his wish list, embodying his diverse taste. The first is a Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 which he calls the “end-game Patek watch” as it’s a rare handcraft grand complication piece that exemplifies the best of the best from the brand. The gem set Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5723 is next, followed by a Rolex Daytona Le Mans – which can be “in any metal, I don’t really mind as long as I have it,” he laughs.
More than a collection
“I think being a collector, it really means that you are actively amassing or acquiring pieces quite frequently. Whereas being a fan or enthusiast means that you are drawn into this horological world and you read up, learn about advancements in watchmaking, but you don’t actively acquire pieces. That’s the difference to me,” Yong Wen explains.
At the end of the day, to Yong Wen, being a watch collector is about appreciating the craftsmanship and level of detail contained in each watch, and about honouring how each piece fits into the chapters of his life. “Certain watches are quite sentimental and they tell a part of the story of my life. I wouldn’t say I’m amassing everything I like, but there are ones that you fall in love with at first sight, and it stays that way throughout the entire time [that you own it],” he says.
As a final word and pulling from his years of collecting, what advice does Yong Wen leave to fellow watch enthusiasts looking to start a collection? His answer, “Really do your research, pinpoint a handful of watches you think you like, and really learn everything about them. Make sure for your first watch, it’s something you truly love. Some collectors make mistakes when buying, and they would call it an impulse buy, but to me even my impulse buys will always remain with me. And finally, don’t be influenced by others or jump on the bandwagon.”
Photography: Imran Sulaiman
Location: The Brasserie, St. Regis Kuala Lumpur
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