Watches and Wonders 2025 officially kicks off today, with programmes spanning seven days set to showcase the watchmaking capital of Geneva and the biggest names in the industry. The first four days starts off exclusively for industry players, retailers, and media, before the Salon opens up to the public from 5 to 7 April. Earlier today and straight from Geneva, Zenith breaks the news of its upcoming novelties for the year, designed and released on the occasion of its 160th anniversary.
The first is the launch of a new collection, built upon one of the watchmaker’s iconic movements that’s already set to be an instant classic: the G.F.J. (named after Zenith founder Georges Favre-Jacot). Reviving the legendary Calibre 135, which was first produced in 1949 and built exclusively for observatory chronometry trials, the Zenith G.F.J. harkens back to a golden age.
Observatory chronometry competitions were an important part in watchmaking, as the rigid trials became a badge of honour and proof of the level of precision that could be achieved by expert watchmakers. Zenith’s Calibre 135 was exceptional among all movements, winning a record of 235 prizes in its lifetime at the trials.
“Few movements in watchmaking history have achieved the level of chronometric excellence and recognition as the calibre 135. More than just a technical achievement, it became a true icon of precision. Bringing it back for our 160th anniversary is about honoring this legacy while sharing it with a new generation of collectors,” said Benoît de Clerck, CEO of Zenith Watches.
This year the new G.F.J. collection resurrects the Calibre 135 and brings with it modern re-engineering that integrates the latest techniques and materials where possible. The 2025 version of the movement maintains the movement’s dimensions (of which the name is derived; 13 lines or 30mm in size with a 5mm thickness), look, and architecture of the original. An offset centre wheel has been incorporated to accommodate the oversized balance wheel, while the power reserve has been updated to deliver 72 hours. The movement-signature double arrow-shaped regulator remains, while a stop-second mechanism is added.
In terms of design, the G.F.J. watch captures the essence of the 1950s with its vintage elements that blends with contemporary accents. The 39mm platinum case is slender and elegant, featuring a stepped bezel and lugs. The crown features the G.F.J. initials, while brushed and polished surfaces leave an exceptional finish.
The striking blue dial is what you’ll want to appreciate next, mixing Zenith’s signature colour with a three-part construction process that brings a sense of depth to the watch face. The outer ring features a brick guilloche pattern, white gold hour markers and 40 hand-applied white gold beads which form the minute track. The centre is crafted from lapis lazuli with gold pyrite flecks that evoke the image of a starry sky, while making each piece unique. The subdial is mother-of-pearl, while the hands are white gold.
To match, the G.F.J. comes with three different straps: dark blue alligator leather, black calfskin leather, and blue Saffiano calfskin leather, while the platinum pin buckle feature the initials and brick pattern too. For those more inclined to wear a bracelet, the G.F.J. can also be worn with a seven-row platinum bracelet available upon request.
The G.F.J. is a limited edition of 160 pieces.
Joining the new G.F.J. collection is a trio of watch novelties that have been reimagined for the maison’s 160-year anniversary. Three of Zenith’s most emblematic chronographs are now available in monochromatic blue in homage to the brand’s signature colour. The chronographs are the Chronomaster Sport, the Defy Skyline Chronograph and the Pilot Big Date Flyback Chronograph, presented for the first time in an awe-inspiring new shade of blue ceramic.
The place of ceramic in watchmaking is a revolutionary one, providing a durable, lightweight, and highly scratch-resistant material. However, manipulating it is a demanding task and when combined with the quest of creating a new and specific shade of Zenith blue, made the process of developing this material one that was months in the making. Once applied to three of the brand’s mainstay collection chronographs, it becomes the perfect object to celebrate and commemorate a milestone as significant as 160 years of embarking on a quest to reach greater heights of watchmaking.
The blue ceramic chronograph trio are limited to 160 pieces each and can be purchased individually or as a set in a special anniversary box.
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