Paris Fashion Week may be over, but fashion still commands the spotlight in the French capital where major preparations for the 2024 Olympic Games are well underway. The three-day Fall/Winter 2024-2025 presentations for Haute Couture Week have just ended with plenty of razzle dazzle, featuring exclusive collections from iconic French fashion houses like Dior and Chanel. The runways showcased the pinnacle of fashion, only meant for those privileged enough to don these exquisite garments for very special occasions. Here are several highlights from some of the most prestigious brands.
Dior
This isn’t the first time that Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri has referenced sports through her work for the label (given her 2017 and 2022 collections), and the Olympic Games as well as its origins in Ancient Greece were rightfully exemplified this season. Taking cue from an Olympic-themed exhibition accessible at the Louvre for a limited time only, Chiuri paid homage to the quintessential peplum through a mostly monochrome lineup comprising ethereal Grecian-inspired garments such as gowns and dresses featuring drapes, pleats, and folded fabrics. Every look was paired with accessories like black leather belts and gladiator sandals.
Chanel
After Virginie Viard departed earlier this month, Chanel’s haute couture show went on without a Creative Director – the first in the history of the house. Despite that, the house upheld its couture blueprint, injected with a dash of theatrics. Dramatic silhouettes ruled the entire collection, with the first look making a grand entrance being a billowing black taffeta cape worn over a white bustier. This was followed by ballet-inspired tutus, more theatrical capes, and other opera-influenced designs, as well as a series of Chanel’s signature tweed skirt suits, all adorned with outstanding embellishments like bows, ribbons, intricate beading, and more.
Giorgio Armani Privé
Despite turning 90 next month, Italian designer Giorgio Armani proved that he is still a force to be reckoned with. His work has always incorporated surface light and reflections, and this haute couture collection echoes a similar sentiment. There was a heavy use of pearls pertaining to “the moon, purity, water, wisdom and love” as the designer mentioned in his show notes, and the sophisticated collection was brimming with liquid silhouettes, shimmery fabrics, and sculpted tailoring. Amidst tumultuous times in the world, Armani opted for pearl embellishments and pearl-shaped accessories to extend a sense of “calm” and “serenity”.
Schiaparelli
Led by American designer Daniel Roseberry, avant-garde couture house Schiaparelli took inspiration from the personal wardrobe of the brand’s Italian founder Elsa Schiaparelli, notably a painted gown with a feathered shawl from a look she wore in the early ’40s. This was reflected by power-shoulder jackets, bustier dresses, sizeable capes, and more daring looks, with several pieces exposing their inner construction. Amongst some of the most intriguing looks included the brand’s trademark monochrome outfits with gold accents, as well as dresses ornamented with surrealist-inspired elements. Every look displayed its own personality.
Balenciaga
Balenciaga’s Creative Director Demna’s collection was a bold commentary on contemporary fashion, eliciting a gentle, quiet and introspective ambience amidst eventful Paris. Focused on high-end tailoring and visual impact, the show featured oversized silhouettes, deconstructed designs, and innovative fabric choices, such as recycled fabric, foil, faux fur, and hair. The collection challenged traditional notions of couture, and also showcased collaborations with artists, including Ni Hao for a hand-sewn T-shirt encased in resin, Alastair Gibson for his micro carbon fibre techniques, and Yumi Okita for a meticulously hand-embroidered butterfly mask.
Iris van Herpen
Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen delivered a breathtaking collection of otherworldly, uber intricate gowns that were literal works of wonder, creating four large-scale tulle artworks to be hung alongside five elaborate tulle-based haute couture gowns donned by models (including Coco Rocha) writhing on white canvases and suspended in the air. The outstanding workmanship shined through in her work, comprising a burst of pearls, filigreed structures, glass-infused organza, lace merged with wispy silk, and a bronzed kimono-inspired dress with gorgeous pleats and folds.