Here are the shows that caught our attention, from Coach’s Jean Basquiat-inspired showcase to Longchamp’s ode to the ‘70s.

Fall 2020 Fashion Week has officially kicked off with back-to-back shows in the city that never sleeps – New York. Though designers the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfilger and Jeremy Scott have opted out this time, the week went on with plenty of new talents to watch out for and well-recognised names that brought their A-game, too.

Here are the shows that caught our attention, from Coach’s Jean Basquiat-inspired showcase to Longchamp’s ode to the ‘70s.

Coach

Whoever thought fall is all about dull, tan colours was in for a surprise at Coach’s show, where Stuart Vevers channelled some serious 1980s energy into the pop heritage collection. Partnering with members of the Jean Basquiat estate, he reimagined the late artist’s most distinctive motifs in a limited-edition collection that accompanied a series of oversized trench coats, midi skirts and leather jackets. Creativity and self-expression were key themes that stood out, colouring the pieces in artistic brush strokes and youthful attitude.

Longchamp

Following up on her previous collections, creative director Sophie Delafontaine once again drew inspiration from the era where jumper dresses and leatherwork thrived – the ‘70s. Personified by the Parisian woman who finds herself in New York (coincidentally describing the designer herself), the resulting looks were heavily infused with knits, bomber jackets and calf-length dresses and skirts paired with knee-high boots. Accessories weren’t overlooked, with both oversized and mini Pliage bags paying homage to the Longchamp heritage.

Proenza Schouler

Designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez may have (finally) found a balance in their aesthetic. Moving away from their previous use of delicate drapes and midi lengths, the collection now features shorter (but not quite mini) dresses and coats that seem to slide effortlessly off one shoulder. Silk, leather and knit fabrics are all given the same bias-cut treatment, which we can totally get used to with those capelets layered over them.

Tory Burch

Inspired by Francesca DiMattio, the artist behind the floral prints in the collection and sculptures along the runway, Tory Burch presented a collection that challenges the notion of femininity. Power suits were reinterpreted with softer silhouettes and structural pieces were contrasted against silky fabrics, blurring the lines between what’s masculine and feminine. High collars, refined tailoring and classical porcelain motifs defined the looks, completed with over-the-knee boots that project power and confidence for women today.

Michael Kors

The American Stock Exchange in Manhattan where Michael Kors presented his latest collection was metamorphosised into an abstract country house, setting the tone for the Wild Wild West-inspired looks reimagined for the urban context. The theme was cozy glamour, represented by the feather-adorned cowboy vests and shimmery pleated dresses. But there was also a modern, sustainable sense of relaxed chic in the knits made from recycled yarns and reclaimed materials. It all exuded the idea of getting away, reconnecting with nature and refuelling – and we can’t think of a better message amidst a frenzied start to 2020.

Marc Jacobs

Closing NYFW with a bang (again) was Marc Jacobs and his surprise guest model, Miley Cyrus. She walked down the runway in an all-black getup complete with a zebra-print jacket and black bag, joined by the Hadid sisters, Karlie Kloss and a cast of dancers. Celebrating the power of storytelling through a special choreography by renowned dancer Karole Armitage, the dancers cum models amped up the energy in the room with abrupt, fierce movements referencing the cultural influences of today interwoven with a past New York. The collection mirrored that depiction with pieces that emphasised restraint and proportion, including monochromatic tunics and dresses that felt neither too loose nor too fitting – just balanced.