From the age of six, Raymond Tham found himself glued to the kitchen while other children at the time were likely playing outdoors. He would observe his grandmother and mother by the stove, watching intently as they stirred, steamed, and seasoned. Often, he would try to recreate dishes he saw on TV, even if some experiments were less successful – like the time he left a wok steaming unattended and nearly burned down the house.
“Even until today, my mom is always trying out new recipes, so I think I grew up with that same curiousity about food,” he fondly recalls about his early exposure to cooking. “My grandma also used to grow vegetables in our backyard. I remember randomly plucking a baby cucumber to eat one day and thinking, ‘oh my goodness’ – it was so good!”
Despite being the inspiration behind his interest in the culinary arts, Raymond’s mother was initially hesitant about this career choice – warning him of the heat, long hours, and backbreaking work. Pushed to reconsider, he pursued hotel catering and management instead. “I wasn’t a good student up until SPM,” the soft-spoken chef admits. “But suddenly, I became one of the top students in my degree. It didn’t feel like I was studying – it was fun.”
He then left Malaysia for London to study business but ended up earning a scholarship to learn culinary arts at the prestigious Westminster Kingsway College. As fate would have it, Raymond was meant for a life behind the kitchen after all. Today, he is the Executive Chef and co-founder of KARLS Group, the driving force behind some of Kuala Lumpur’s most progressive dining destinations.
A global journey, rooted in culinary
After completing his studies, Raymond’s career took him across continents from the UK to Bermuda, where he worked for three years in a luxury resort. “I just wanted to get out of the country,” he says, recollecting how he landed the job after sending his resume to over 200 places around the globe. “Back then, I didn’t even know where Bermuda is. I saw that it was only a two-hour flight from New York City, so I said yes.”
Though he could have continued his career abroad, a longing to be closer to family – and to contribute to Malaysia’s culinary landscape – eventually pulled him home in 2008.
His early years back in Malaysia saw him pivot between roles: lecturer, pastry chef, and eventually, chocolate ambassador for Asia Pacific. The latter allowed him to travel extensively, working across markets in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Indonesia, Singapore, Japan, and South Korea. But Raymond always nurtured a dream: to open his own restaurant in his homeland.
“I really hope that more Malaysians can come back to the country, because we need the talents to grow our industry.”
That dream materialised with Skillet, which started humbly as a casual restaurant but evolved through guest feedback and Raymond’s ambition into a modern European fine dining destination. However, the transition was not without challenges, as tasting menus were not a norm at the time.
“In the early days, a lot of guests walked out of the restaurant because they were not into set menus. But I told my team and myself, you know, even if only one or two people come in, let’s make sure they are happy,” he says. “If our guests are happy, they will tell others about it – and that remains true until today.”
Redefining Malaysian gastronomy
Three years later, after Skillet had established itself among the leaders of KL’s fine dining scene, Raymond launched Beta – his ode to Malaysian flavours. What inspired the shift from European to local cuisine? “As a Malaysian, I love street food, but we have so much more to offer than that. That’s why we started Beta,” he replies.
Raymond explains that the restaurant’s moniker carries two connotations: it represents his second F&B venture, and the Malay pronoun for royal sovereigns to refer to themselves in first person – “because we believe everybody should feast like a king.”
Seven years on, Beta has become a benchmark for contemporary Malaysian dining, presenting ingredients and flavours from across the nation in bold, inventive ways. In 2023, Beta was awarded its first Michelin star – a recognition that took Raymond and his team by surprise. Equally significant was the fact that they retained the honour for a second consecutive year.
“As a Malaysian, I love street food, but we have so much more to offer than that. That’s why we started Beta – we believe everybody should feast like a king.”
However, getting to that point took immeasurable grit, patience, and consumer education. “At first, people thought ‘modern Malaysian’ meant plating nasi lemak in a fancy way or using premium ingredients like lobster and charging more for it,” Raymond reveals. “But for us, it’s about creating something original – not copying, but innovating flavours from our heritage and melting pot of cultures.”
Beta’s signature Wing Bean Salad with Budu Aioli encapsulates this spirit: inspired by Raymond’s childhood memories of his grandmother’s garden and layered with East Coast traditions that the Port Dickson native discovered after travelling around the nation, blended into a single, umami-rich bite. Ultimately, for him, Malaysian gastronomy is defined by complexity. “Our palate is naturally bold and diverse, which makes our food very exciting.”
When asked if earning the highly sought-after star has changed his perspective, Raymond confesses, “At first, yes, there was added pressure. But eventually, I told myself and my team: don’t chase awards. Let’s just focus on making people happy with our food.” Still, he acknowledges the impact the accolade has had: “Of course, the star brings us more business. It also brings the restaurant’s name and my name up. But for me, I think we always need to improve and evolve.”
From chef to restaurateur
And evolve they did. From his two flagship restaurants, Raymond has since expanded into new ventures together with his partners at KARLS Group. These include Upper House (a modern Asian restaurant and bar inspired by its surrounding Chinatown neighbourhood), RHEA (a casual restaurant blending global flavours), The Social Room (a neighbourhood bar), and Supernormal (a coffee bar with an in-house baker).
Beyond the restaurant scene, Raymond has also collaborated with world-renowned brands such as Christian Dior – most notably for Dioriviera pop-ups and Dior Café – as well as several other luxury houses, bridging gastronomy with fashion, lifestyle, and design.
An upcoming project – a restaurant with a paddle club and pool in TREC KL – signals just how far his ambitions have grown. With this rapid growth comes even greater responsibility, reflecting Raymond’s restless creativity and vision. “Being a chef and being a restaurateur are very different,” he says. “At the end of the day, a restaurant must sustain itself – it pays salaries, it feeds families. But you also cannot be overly hungry for money; there needs to be a balance.”
“If we can build that balance between local authenticity and world-class execution, Malaysia will truly stand out on the global dining map.”
As KARLS Group celebrates its 10th year in 2025, Raymond’s focus is on expansion – not necessarily in creating more brands, but in bringing existing concepts like RHEA and Upper House to more locations. His vision remains the same: to elevate Malaysia’s culinary standing on the global stage while nurturing the next generation of chefs. That’s why you’ll often find him at Beta, while his proteges, like Sous Chef Eric Kit at Skillet, carry on his legacy at the group’s other outlets.
“I want to see my team grow, whether they stay with us or move on,” he opines. “Even today, I really hope that more Malaysians can come back to the country. We need more talents to grow our industry. There is so much potential here.”
That ethos extends to his leadership style. Ahead of every service, he makes it a point to inject positivity into his team. “I always try to crack some jokes before we open the doors,” he laughs, “Because if the team is happy, that energy flows to the guests. If there are any issues, we can always resolve them after service so it doesn’t affect the guest experience.”
His vision for Malaysian gastronomy
Looking ahead, Raymond hopes that Malaysia’s dining industry will continue to grow in identity and confidence. “We have such a rich heritage of flavours and ingredients – I’d like to see more chefs embracing that in creative, modern ways while still respecting tradition,” he says.
“I also hope we strengthen our ecosystem – producers, farmers, artisans, and chefs working hand in hand – so that diners experience not just a meal, but a story of place and culture. If we can build that balance between local authenticity and world-class execution, Malaysia will truly stand out on the global dining map.”
His culinary impact is already being recognised internationally – just days ago (as of the time of writing), Raymond earned one knife at The Best Chef Awards 2025 in Milan, one of only five Malaysian chefs to receive the honour.
Raymond’s journey – from a curious boy who nearly set his family home ablaze to a Michelin-starred chef and restaurateur – mirrors the evolution of Malaysia’s gastronomy: bold, diverse, and still hungry for more. As he puts it simply, “There is no autopilot in F&B. It’s just hard work, every day. But if we keep pushing, I believe Malaysia can stand among the best.”
Featured image: Raymond commands the kitchen in a Dior suit and pants.
Editor, interview, and words: Natalie Khoo
Art direction: Driv
Photography: Imran Sulaiman
Videography: Khairul Irsyaduddin
Videography assistant and subtitles: Charmaine Loh
Stylist: Birdy Lee
Grooming: Asaki Yok
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