The first thing that struck me on the 90-minute journey from Zurich Airport to Andermatt was the naturally stunning, picturesque scenery. As we ascended 1,400m up in the Alps, the grassland pastures of Switzerland gave way to icy rocky outcrops. We were heading up into the snow line, and as the temperature dropped, I couldn’t have been happier.
Andermatt is full of surprises. Sitting on a high plateau at the heart of the Swiss Alps, the village has swung from being a remote, spa town to one of the country’s most important military bases and now, a world-class holiday destination. Back in the ’50s and ’60s, it was a go-to spot for British skiers, an escape from the crowded slopes of swanky Swiss resorts like Wengen, Gstaad and Engelberg. The town later became extremely quiet and the local population was dwindling, until the early 2000s when an Egyptian businessman by the name of Samih Sawiris locked eyes with its alpine beauty.
Since then, Andermatt has had an attractive mix of chic hotels, apartments and chalets popping up, including The Chedi Andermatt, the first, most luxurious hotel in the area, and renowned nightlife spot Cotton Club. Until now and recently, it’s the perfect town for foreigners and locals seeking a holiday home in the Alps. Located in the Swiss-German area of the country, Andermatt is also close to a three-hour drive from Milan, making it popular not just with tourists, but also locals looking for a quick escape into the Italian city.
Our trip in Andermatt began at the Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen, a cosy stay overlooking the mountain scenery of the Ursern Valley. Deep snow covered every inch of the valley, and as someone who’s never really skied before, I knew this was my opportunity to finally give it a try. When the next morning dawned, we left our comfortable nests, got equipped with the right ski suits and boots and headed to the Nätschen-Gütsch gondola station, where we enjoyed the relatively flat slope under the watchful eyes of our instructors.
When it was time for a break, we had a top-notch lunch at the mid-mountain, Michelin-starred restaurant known as Restaurant Gütsch by Markus Neff. “Lunch with a view” took on a whole new meaning as I gazed upon breathtaking views of the Gotthard Pass, Oberalp Pass and Ursern Valley below while enjoying my meal – an outstanding menu of handmade pasta dishes and bread inspired by French haute cuisine with regional influences.
The next day, we were keen to explore more of what the ski town has to offer. It was then time to check out the famed aprés-ski train ride, the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway. We travelled through Oberalp Pass whilst passing by the most magical, panoramic views of glittering winter forests to stop by the Gemsstock resort which is a hotspot for dare-devil skiers. Indeed, in the Andermatt region, you’re never short of spectacular views.
My aim throughout the trip was to take a stroll through the cobblestoned paths where the locals live. I remember being fascinated at how the village sticks to the epitome of authentic Swiss culture by retaining its local flair and architecture, unlike the other resort towns with swanky shopping boutiques alongside every street. Trudging through melting snow surrounded by unbelievable mountain ranges, we were accompanied by local tour guide Bänz Simmen – a wonderful character and a walking encyclopedia on the history, myths and legends of Andermatt. Just like strolling through a winter rom-com (or a cheesy Christmas special on Netflix), we stumbled across quaint buildings and a gorgeous, gentle stream.
No matter where you go or what you’re willing to do in the Swiss Alps, you’re bound to find the national classic cheese fondue. Hence we finished the evening with a fondue dinner at the locals’ favourite restaurant, Fondue Burg Hospental, set in the cellar of a historic building in Andermatt’s old town. We were recommended by the owner to have a cup of mint tea while having the fondue, which helps temper its overwhelming richness. The locals swear by it all, and they were right.
Life in Andermatt is slow but colourful, to say the least. From its interesting history to the jovial nature of the locals and the quiet charm, it’s not difficult to imagine living in such an idyllic setting. I can see why Samih Sawiris fell in love with the area when he first visited it all those years ago, and why he had the drive to encourage more people to discover the beauty of Andermatt.
All that remains for me is planning when I can return, to feel the freedom of the mountains once more and to explore more of a landscape that, fundamentally, is one of the finest that nature has to offer.
Visit here to learn more about Andermatt.
